A little beauty from Willamette: Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2004 + some visiting friends

Today I got a New (partly Old) World, Old World Pinot Mash Up for you guys. Enjoy it ;-)

Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2004, Willamette Valley

 
Well OK! I know this Pinot from Oregon isn’t all too extraordinary or somehow exotic. Anyway, I just wanna mention this one on my blog, because it was simple amazing. I had this one together with two other Pinots from Switzerland. Before I tried the reds I had two Rieslings and one Chardonnay in advance. At the end I’d like to mention the others as well. But for now back to Willamette Valley:

The colour of the Drouhin Pinot appeared to me as rather dark and a bit faint. The smell was simply fantastic. I got spring blossoms, some spice, maybe at first some pickled cucumber and a butt load of cherries and raspberries. A wonderfully elegant and muscular Pinot scent! It metaphorically jumped into my face and took a bite of my nose. Its taste was bewitching. I got lean, but forceful, flavours of raspberries, dark cherries, rose hip, mildly roasted almonds, a hint of cola, ethereal spice, some flowers and slight and gentle kisses of oak. It appeared to be a very gentle and sophisticated Pinot without a certain amount of strength and definitely not without pure elegance. Very well proportionated acid and mineral components weren’t missing either. Its fruitful sweetness had a precise and dry character. The higher alcohol (14%) did not make any trouble. The best of all: the length.  It went on for ages. Great experience! I guess now is a very good time for consumption.

Weingut Scadenagut Wegelin Malenser Pinot Noir 2007, Bündner Herrschaft

Rather faint colour. At first my nose got earthy and smoky scents. A bit like from strongly smoked ham. Later aromas of cherries took the lead. The taste was very much the same. After a while the Wegelin Pinot showed very nice cherries flavours combined with some hearty, maybe even spicey, herbal flavours. Nothing to complain about. The slightly extravagant fruit sweetness or the acid proportion were just fine, but not more. Not a great Pinot, but very contenting quality. Nice wine!

Weingut Davaz Pinot Noir Fläsch 2008, Bündner Herrschaft

Very clear and fresh ruby red colour. At first the nose seemed pretty smokey, a bit earthy and slightly harsh. After some hours an extraordinary nose and taste of lime and hints of lemon evolved. Very astounding for a Pinot Noir. I assume! Very good structure and fine acid proportion. Medium length. More a cold and fresh style Pinot Noir! I could imagine this as a very dangerous wine for a blind tasting with tinted glasses. Chardonnay? Pinot? Something else?

There was some white stuff up front:

Weingut Fendel Riesling vom Klosterlay Kabinett trocken 2009, Rheingau

 
A bit crude, a bit harsh and very racy Riesling. On the first day not very enjoyable! It had very strong and unbalanced flavours of fennel and anis. On the second day the fennel remained, but in a more civilized way. Some lemon flavours appeared as well. A probably decent, but rather simple Kabinett Riesling. Still too young. 

Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling vom Rotliegenden Spätlese trocken 2005, Pfalz

Very watery and thin. Almost no nose. Taste was disapointing as well. Apparantly rather old. Although hard to believe! I guess something must have been wrong with the bottle. No obvious faults or flaws.

Domaine Lamy-Pillot Chassange-Montrachet Pot Bois 2005, Chassange-Montrachet

Very fine and sturdy nose. Multi-layered fragrances of vanilla and lemon. Some gentle herbs, too. Very much the same with my first impression of the taste. Very well integrated oak flavours, beautiful lemon and very nice acid. A lean, mineral and fresh character. Not all too fat. At its finish it got a bit hard and impetuous. Green and harsh earthy aromas took the lead. Rahter unusual. The only (but for me important) negativ impression I go from this Chardonnay.

Once more I do sacrifice myself for the sake of turnover: Victory Vineyards Zinfandel Parcel Thirty One 2007

The Zinfandel Parcel Thirty One was composed of 100% Zinfandel grapes from 3 different Californian appellations. Which? I don’t know …

A rather light weight if you are willing to compare this affordable Zin with on of the “big alc monster wines” from various other, and not mentioned, Californian wineries. I would not like to do so. I’d describe this one as medium bodied. I guess I prefer a more lean style in case of Zinfandel wines. The alc wasn’t too influential (13,9% alc). Nice fruit flavours of black currant, plums and black berries were present. Maybe a bit too intense and blunt. Not a lot of oak flavours though. For me a bit too much sweetness, but still in an acceptable way. Zins or Primitivos are a bit more sweet by nature!?! I guess? It wasn't a wine with much character. A bit clumsy and streamlined. Anyway, one of the better Zins I had in my life. Not every Zin can be as good as the ones from Ridge ;-). Fair QPR!

Some rather interesting Pinots from Brasil, Spain, New Zealand and Hungary I recently had

These tasting notes were taken from "Pinot weit weg". Partly my contribution on "Das Weinfroum". That is why they were written in German. I inserted a short abstract in something like English, too.

Lidio Carraro Pinot Noir Da’Divas 2009, Rio Grande do Sul

Seine Farbe ist schon erstaunlich bräunlich-rot. Vor allem wenn man bedenkt, dass es ein 2009er ist. Von der Tiefe der Farbe würde ich sagen, dass er doch relativ hell erscheint.
Sein Geruch wird einerseits ganz klar von feiner Erdbeere und Himbeere dominiert. Andererseits vernehme ich Düfte einer frühlingshaften Blumenwiese. Insbesondere Veilchen und Margeriten stechen heraus.
Sein Geschmack zeichnet sich durch seinen leichten und filigranen Charakter aus. Ich schmecke angenehme, sowie ziemlich schlanke Erdbeer- und Himbeeraromen, eine sehr lebendige und wohl proportionierte Säure, nahezu kein Einfluss durch Eiche und einen Hauch von Kaffee.
Für mich ein sehr überraschendes Erlebnis. Zunächst festgestellt: Ein positives Erlebnis. Das ist nicht immer so bei solchen Experimenten. Vor dem Öffnen der Flasche sind mir schon so einige Horrorszenarien durch den Kopf gegangen. Ich hatte eigentlich eher mit einem Pinot wie ich ihn aus Chile oder Argentinien kenne erwartet. Also tendenziell doch eher ziemlich kräftig, holzig und alkoholstark. Natürlich gibt es da auch andere Beispiele, doch die meisten die mir über die Jahre untergekommen sind waren eher solche Gesellen. Dieser brasilianische Pinot jedoch ist von einer Leichtigkeit und Finesse wie ich sie eher mit einem „mittelschweren“ und klassischem Bourgogne Rouge verbinde. Bei einer Blindverkostung wäre ich 100% auf die Nase gefallen.
Als Fazit würde ich meinen: Ein leichter, schöner, nicht allzu komplizierter (Sommer)wein der viel Spass bringen kann. Leider etwas zu teuer. Gleiche Preisklasse wie ein anständiger Bourgogne Rouge.

Its colour appeared (already) very red-brown. I think a rather bright Pinot. Very fine strawberry nose, a bit of raspberries and a bit floral (maybe violets). The taste showed very subtle and refined features. A surprisingly light and set back Pinot. Almost no oak influence, very lively acid, decent strawberry flavours, some raspberries as well and a hint of coffee. This was my first Pinot form Brasil. It very much surprised me! A rather classical and "continental" Pinot style. In a blind tasting I'd guessed for an average Bourgogne Rouge. Unlike all Pinots from Chile or Argentina I tried before. Maybe a bit expensive (approx. 17 Euro). Anyway, it was a very nice experiment.

Bodegas Miquel Gelabert Vinya Des Moré Crianza Vi de Taule de Balears 2002

Ich kann nicht behaupten, dass ich mich sonderlich mit Pinot Negros aus Spanien auskenne. Bis dato habe drei oder vier probieren können und so richtig bin ich bis jetzt nicht auf die Nase gefallen. Diesen Wein von Miquel Gelabert habe ich schon einmal vor 3 Jahren getrunken. Schon damals empfand ich ihn als sehr reizvoll. Aus meiner Erinnerung und meiner damaligen VKN heraus kann ich keinen erheblichen Unterschied zu damals feststellen. Es mag sein, dass seine Farbe damals nicht ganz so rot-bräunlich war wie sie es heute ist. Stark auffallen tut dies aber nicht, da der Vinya Des Moré ziemlich dunkel ist.
Vom Geruch her vernehme ich immer noch dieselben gereiften Himbeer- und gut ausbalancierten Eichenaromen. Auch sehr delikate Gerüche einer Blumenwiese im Frühling und leichten Heuanklängen steigen mir in die Nase. Der Geruch erscheint sehr dicht, aber keineswegs schwer oder alkoholisch.
Die Primäraromen im Geschmack sind eindeutig sehr reife und gut „abgehangene“ Himbeeren, sowie leichte blumige Ansätze. Ich würde sagen, dass er nicht knochentrocken ist. Eine kräftige, aber nicht kitschige, Fruchtsüße ist eindeutig vorhanden. Verallgemeinert ausgedrückt erinnert er mich ein wenig an einen gut gemachten Russian River Pinot. Dem spielt vielleicht auch der Umstand in die Hände, dass immer noch anständige Eichenaromen im Gesamtbild vorhanden sind. Wobei sie ganz sicher nicht im Vordergrund stehen. Ein sehr wohl dosiertes Säuregerüst verleiht dem Wein viel Trinkfreude und Jugendlichkeit.
Derzeit vielleicht ein idealer Genusszeitpunkt. Meiner Meinung nach ein sehr probierens-werter Pinot aus Spanien. Etwas negativ mag der Preis vielleicht auffallen. Um die 30 Euro erscheint mir etwas zuviel zu sein.

For a tasting note in English I may insert a note I have witten 3 years ago. It is still very much the same wine. Just the colour changed a bit more towards a brown'ish direction:
This one is my second Pinot Noir from Spain (first one was Mas Borras 2002 from Torres) and once again it was a positive surprise. This Pinot Negro from Bodegas Gelabert doesn't belong to D.O. Pla i Llevant region because Pinot isn't covered by the wine law. Its colour was very dark for a Pinot. Its fragrance was similar to the Mas Borras. I could spot aged raspberries and very well balanced vanilla scents. Floral scents of hay flowers were present as well. Its taste was very dense, but not heavy or alcoholic at all. It was dominated by the taste of very ripe raspberries. In a certain way it has had a quite sweet style, but not a sweetness which some New World Pinot Noirs demonstrate. Due to the very pleasent acid it appeared to be very well balanced. The new oak wasn't dominant at all. It showed a very classical performance. It surely was a very well made Pinot Noir and for sure it was absolutely worth to try. I enjoyed it very much. Its price however was like most wines from Mallorca (respectively Pinot Noir from Spain) a bit too high (approx. 24 - 28 Euro).

Nautilus Estate Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

Wie mir das Rückenetikett und die Webseite einer besagten österreichischen Weinhandelskette vermitteln, wurde dieser Pinot aus 6 verschiedenen Klonen die in 5 verschiedenen Weinbergen, wobei für Marlborough Weinacker eher stimmen mag, wenn ich mich richtig erinnere, angebaut. Ausgebaut wurde er wohl in neuen und etwas älteren französischen Barriques.
Die Farbe des Weins erscheint immer noch ziemlich vital und jugendlich, obwohl dieser auch schon 5 Jahre und eine lange Reise auf dem Buckel hat. Sehr klare und ziemlich dunkle rubinrote Reflexe. Da darf man wahrscheinlich auch ein wenig der Stelvin Cap danken, die sich in NZ schon ziemlich früh durchgesetzt hat.
Der Duft erscheint im Moment leicht gemüsig zu sein. Des Weiteren kann ich angebrannte Haselnüsse, etwas Instant Kaffee (?), abgelagertes Heu, ganz wenig Lakritz, aber auch schöne dunkle Kirschen und ein wenig Himbeeren riechen. Ich merke aber schon, dass die gemüsige Note allmählich am verschwinden ist.
Der Geschmack kommt sehr rund und ein wenig gefällig daher. Keine harten Tannine mehr. Der Wein hat viel Körper und leider auch nicht gerade wenig Alkohol (auf der Flasche 14%, auf der Webseite von Nautilus 13,5%, mich würde es nicht wundern wenn es 14,5% wären). Doch der Alkohol ist nicht all zu sehr im Vordergrund. In diesem stehen eindeutig schöne dunkle Kirscharomen. Daneben zeigen sich auch angenehme, wenn auch nicht für Pinot ganz so typische, Pflaumengeschmäcker. Ein wenig Erdigkeit und leichte Pilzenoten (vielleicht frische braune Champignons) sind ganz sicher auch vorhanden. Eine wichtige Komponente, die Säure, ist bei diesem Pinot außerordentlich gut proportioniert. Das einigste was ich an diesem Wein wirklich auszusetzen habe, ist der etwas zu starke Allohools. Ein gewisses Problem bei nicht so wenigen neuseeländischen Pinots. Die vom werten Wine Spectator vergebenen 91 Punkte scheinen mir ein wenig hoch, doch auch nicht total vorbei. Erstaunliche Treffergenauigkeit.

Als Fazit würde ich jetzt einmal vorwegnehmen, da noch gut 0,4l in der Flasche sind, ein schöner und sehr trinkfreudiger, doch ziemlich „moderner“, Pinot für einen akzeptablen Preis. Ohne 20%ige Reduzierung finde ich ihn doch etwas teuer für das was man bekommt.

Very vital and juvenile red colour. The nose appeared a bit vegetal.Besides that there were some roasted hazelnuts, hay, instant coffee and liquorice. Fortunately some dark cherries and very aged raspberries, too. My vegetal impression faded after a while. Then very favourable Pinot armoas evolved. The hard tannins vanished. Unfortunately not the alcohol (too much, after 3 h very strong, one day later it got better). The fruit flavours of dark cherries were very delightful. Mushrooms and earthy flavours were rather strong and impressiv as well. Good acid proportion, too. The only real problem was the very very hearty alcohol influence ....

Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet Apatsagi 2006, Pannonhalmi

Pinot from a monastery in Sopron. Pretty red-brown colour on the rim. The fragrances I smelled did not really give me a very positive impression. I got some strawberry jam, a certain alcoholic strength and most obviously a typical sweet stinging scent of a demi-sec Pinot. Why! Revolting! The taste supported my assumption. Definitely demi-sec, roasted flavours, some marmalade, hints of cherries, a bit more of strawberries, some awful pig trough flavours, flat acid an medium finish. At least no real faults and the actual body-strength seemed to quite fine. But that's it! Let’s have some goulash this evening (I got a suitable cooking wine. Rejoice). A pity. My poor selection of Hungarian wine does not come to an end. QPR was miserable.

On the border: Cremisan Vineyards Dabouky 2009

Cremisan Vineyards is situated near Bethlehem in the once upon a time famous monastery of Cremisan. Here a little description of the actual and rather curious location:

“Cremisan is on the border between the West Bank and Jerusalem, with the main building officially in Jerusalem and the storeroom on the other side of the parking lot in the West Bank. The long winding road to the monastery is just past one of the coordinating offices between Israel and the Palestinian Autonomy.“    
source: http://www.cremisan.org/html/history.html

The winery exists since 1885 and is still run by Christian monks of the Salesian Community. The currant winemaker is a monk from Italy. The portfolio of wines stretches from international varietals like Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon – some typically Italian wines like Malvasia or Verdicchio Rosso, out to a few wines made from autochtonous Grapes. My Dabouky (sometimes called Dura) wine appeared to be one of those auto’ ones. Well and that’s my impression of the Dabouky:

The colour of the wine appeared to be almost dark yellow with some reflexes of bright orange. Actually, the nose wasn't that bad at all. Rather surprisingly fresh! I smelled stewed apples, some scnts of yellow lemons and a hint of apricot. A lot of freshness conquered my nose. The taste however seemed not as delightful as the smell did. It was husky, crude and a bit thin. Its structure lacked of strength and acid. The fruit flavours were dominated by the taste of old apples (almost rotten ones, I guess – never tried before). Beside that I got some mediterranean spices and a bit unpleasant green flavours (which I cannot describe).

Unfortunately this Dabouky wine was pretty unbalanced and a bit dull, too. For me it was a very simple and drinkable wine. Not more! Nose was nice … , Price was difficult …

Something new from a historical landmark: Massandra Cabernet Sauvignon N.V.

My third new post and already a tasting note from a guest! OK, I am not that lazy. I just need some turnover after such a long and dry blabbing phase.

First some interesting facts about Massandra: Apparently Massandra is the oldest and most renowned winery in nowadays Ukraine. It is situated near Yalta on Crimea Island. By the influence of Prince Lev Golitzin, an accomplished winemaker, the winery soared to new and unknown qualities. Their wines were popular and highly demanded all over Eastern Europe and the Russian Royal Family. Then and now the most interesting and demanded wines are the Muscat dessert wines produced from varietals like White Muscat, Surozh Kokur, Rosé Muscat, Black Muscat, Pinot Gris, Bastardo, Ayu-Dag Aleatico, Cagors and Ay-Serez (most I never heard of), as well as their liqueur wines made from the same and some more varietals. The most interesting fact about this winery might be their enormously big cellars with huge amounts of very old vintages. Unfortunately no place for bargains anymore. After the fall of the iron curtain the prices increased drastically. I have been told that the style of their desert wines show resemblances to good Tokaij wines. I guess it is up to everybody personal taste whether to decide this resemblance as justified or not. I have no clue.

The following wine has absolutely nothing to do with dessert wines. It is a non vintage Cabernet Sauvignon. The alcohol was between 10 -13 % (very strange indication) and it was bottled in August 2011. Now we have a short guest tasting note by Marcus Deus:

The colour isn’t all too dark. In the nose there are fruitful as well as earthy austere scents. The tannins are rather present and still hard. Plenty of acid. A very nice and decent fruit potpourri. Shows clear resemblances to a light Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Some hints of mineral features, too. 82P

Approx. two years ago I had the same Cabernet. My impression was almost the same. Back then, I was under the impression that the grapes might have suffered under great heat. I tasted loads of raisin flavours. I guess it was a nice and drinkable wine, but nothing more.

The other Massandra wine I had some time ago was far more interesting. Went down very well. Alongside with some rather pleasing and rustic Ukrainian caviar (see photo on the right). Pretty strange combination. I am totally aware of that ;-).

Pinot from the desert: Barkan Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Classic Kosher 2009

Wow! Faster than expected. And what’s to begin with? Pinot Noir of course :-)

First, I have to confess: I never had Pinot from Israel and I definitely never had Pinot from a real desert vineyard either. The grapes were cultivated in Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev Desert. Luckily at an altitude of 750m. I guess it’ll be really interesting how they produced this wine. Anyway, here is my first new tasting note on wine-zeit:

Predominantly purple reflexes and a rather dark and shiny colour.

Fragrances of wild berries, some blueberries, a bit of cassis, slight oak, a hint of smoke (which faded after a while), later some dark cherries and a hint of cinnamon.

The taste: Now I was sure! It was Pinot! Colour and fragrance did not really show 100 % very typical and classical Pinot features. The taste did. I tasted dark cherries, a bit of cassis and some wild berries as well. A gentle and very lean oak influence!?! Medium length. A very well proportionate acid and bitterness combination. Very nice fruit sweetness. At first maybe a bit too much. The rather typical, for the Middle-East, flavours of dried cherries and a bit of fig (maybe) were not missing. Before I opened this one I was a bit worried about how this typical “Middle-East-Style-Component” might work out with a Pinot. But in this case it really did well. I guess the main reason for such a coherent combination of very hot climate (especially in Negev) and the fragile habitus of Pinot was the straight forward character of a clear and clean fruit orientated wine. I assume the winemaker did not intend to produce a hyper complex or heavy Pinot. This one appeared to be rather fresh and not over alcoholised (12,5%). As far as I can see: It was the right choice. Now I am curious about a Galil Pinot from 2009. I guess this one will be very different. 15% of alcohol might be a different story. We’ll see in some months.

I am back!

After a tremendously long break I will be back for good. Not that anybody cared about my absence anyway. Within the forthcoming week I will reinvent this little blog by presenting you a variety of unusual or not all to common wines and beverages. At least from a Western European point of view ;-). The old posts will remain (halfway), but you may feel free to neglect them. :-). I hope after the refurbishment my blog won't look that pathetically amateurish as it does at this very moment.

Well then. See you in a week or so!

Oh Dae-su