Recently, I had an interesting tasting with three very different white Burgundian fellows, a red one plus a Big Shot Teuton and a Candy Teuton. Let's go! Here some insufficient impressions on my behalf:
Let's start with a proper
disenchantment! I never thought I'd have a problem with this wine!. The Domaine Francois
Mikulski Bourgogne Blanc 2009 was relatively free of colour, showed cheesy scents of pretty nasty and sweet'ish-manipulative lemon
aromas, a lot of oak and resemblances of detergents and other
hygienic products which I will not elaborate. The taste conveyed plenty of concentration - however the salacious and sweet'ish style of the Chardonnay could not
conquer my heart. Too much oak and insufficient length did their job
accordingly. At this stage a very disappointing Bourgogne Blanc from
one of my favourite Meursault producers! Maybe there will be some evo
still to come. I am a bit pessimistic about it, though! Right now with a lot of goodwill a so-so ***
Chardonnay. The next and far more convincing Chardonnay came from
Viré-Clessé. This heavily concentrated and a bit fat Viré-Clessé
2004 was produced by E.J. Thévenet from the Domaine de la Bongran.
Its colour had a lot of juicy colouring. The nose surprised me with
its freshness and intensity. It showed plenty of fresh and intense
lemon scents, a bit fire-cracker and a significant amount of vanilla. The taste was very
dense, very concentrated, definitely a bit lush, creamy, maybe a bit
impetuous and showed versatile flavours of lemons and traces of dark
berries. The mineral character seemed pretty okay as well. The only issues for me were alcohol related. There was a slightly exaggerated alcohol presence. Those
14 % were present, not dominating, but present! Anyway, an absolutely
decent **** aged Chardonnay with a lot of life and character. The
Rully Les Saint-Jacques 2009 from
the Domaine A. et P.
de Villaine seemed a bit reserved and inscrutable to me. The bouquet
appeared very upstage. I think I spotted some herbs and green'ish
lemons!? The taste seemed reserved or shy or something else …, too.
I got mild green herbs, mute lemon flavours and quite a lot of
smoothness. The balance seemed fine, but hard to define! Can't rate
this one, although I'd like to imagine to see some potential!
The
only Pinot Noir of the afternoon came from the Domaine Marc Colin. It
was a Saint Aubin Premier Cru 2005 assemblage from various vineyards.
The colour was surprisingly dark and blunt. The nose had a lot of
dark, harsh smoke, diffuse oak and plenty of ripe fruitful aromas. The taste was
pretty adolescent. I got semi concentrated flavours of ripe and not
too dark cherries, other more dark berries, stronger traces of cola,
a rather spicy touch and a lot of smoke. Not a real charmer! More of a down-to-earth peasenty Pinot expirience! I guess
the concentration could have been a bit better, but my overall
impression was good. A decent **** Premier Cru for little money.
As
a supplement to the Gaul - two Teutons did a very fine job! The
everywhere relentlessly praised Silvaner Feuervogel 2009 from Klaus Peter Keller
convinced me with his density and concentration. Simultaneously it
showed vivid freshness and intriguing exotic fruit flavours. A very
clear, very well balanced, complex and surely very decent *****
Silvaner indeed. A little bit less tendency to slick perfection and a little bit
more drive to unique character would have made this wine even better (for me).
Oh hell, I know … very sourpuss'y and petty! I better shut up! Best wine of the day! The second Teuton was a Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spätlese
2010 from Weingut Matthias Müller in Mittelrhein region. This one
excited me with a combination of captivating fresh and lively acid, beautiful fruit sweetness and a decent amount of stony characteristics. The nose seemed a bit dull and
weak'ish. However the important stuff - guess what - was very refined and
well balanced. A really nice 2010 off-dry Riesling with a fair amount of complexity
and not so much demand (which can be good from time to time!). This vintage: very decent ***** stuff! I wonder how this will be in low acid years ...!?!
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