Burgs and some White Teutons for a change

Recently, I had an interesting tasting with three very different white Burgundian fellows, a red one plus a Big Shot Teuton and a Candy Teuton. Let's go! Here some insufficient impressions on my behalf:

Let's start with a proper disenchantment! I never thought I'd have a problem with this wine!. The Domaine Francois Mikulski Bourgogne Blanc 2009 was relatively free of colour, showed cheesy scents of pretty nasty and sweet'ish-manipulative lemon aromas, a lot of oak and resemblances of detergents and other hygienic products which I will not elaborate. The taste conveyed plenty of concentration - however the salacious and sweet'ish style of the Chardonnay could not conquer my heart. Too much oak and insufficient length did their job accordingly. At this stage a very disappointing Bourgogne Blanc from one of my favourite Meursault producers! Maybe there will be some evo still to come. I am a bit pessimistic about it, though! Right now with a lot of goodwill a so-so *** Chardonnay. The next and far more convincing Chardonnay came from Viré-Clessé. This heavily concentrated and a bit fat Viré-Clessé 2004 was produced by E.J. Thévenet from the Domaine de la Bongran. Its colour had a lot of juicy colouring. The nose surprised me with its freshness and intensity. It showed plenty of fresh and intense lemon scents, a bit fire-cracker and a significant amount of vanilla. The taste was very dense, very concentrated, definitely a bit lush, creamy, maybe a bit impetuous and showed versatile flavours of lemons and traces of dark berries. The mineral character seemed pretty okay as well. The only issues for me were alcohol related. There was a slightly exaggerated alcohol presence. Those 14 % were present, not dominating, but present! Anyway, an absolutely decent **** aged Chardonnay with a lot of life and character. The Rully Les Saint-Jacques 2009 from the Domaine A. et P. de Villaine seemed a bit reserved and inscrutable to me. The bouquet appeared very upstage. I think I spotted some herbs and green'ish lemons!? The taste seemed reserved or shy or something else …, too. I got mild green herbs, mute lemon flavours and quite a lot of smoothness. The balance seemed fine, but hard to define! Can't rate this one, although I'd like to imagine to see some potential!

The only Pinot Noir of the afternoon came from the Domaine Marc Colin. It was a Saint Aubin Premier Cru 2005 assemblage from various vineyards. The colour was surprisingly dark and blunt. The nose had a lot of dark, harsh smoke, diffuse oak and plenty of ripe fruitful aromas. The taste was pretty adolescent. I got semi concentrated flavours of ripe and not too dark cherries, other more dark berries, stronger traces of cola, a rather spicy touch and a lot of smoke. Not a real charmer! More of a down-to-earth peasenty Pinot expirience! I guess the concentration could have been a bit better, but my overall impression was good. A decent **** Premier Cru for little money.

As a supplement to the Gaul - two Teutons did a very fine job! The everywhere relentlessly praised Silvaner Feuervogel 2009 from Klaus Peter Keller convinced me with his density and concentration. Simultaneously it showed vivid freshness and intriguing exotic fruit flavours. A very clear, very well balanced, complex and surely very decent ***** Silvaner indeed. A little bit less tendency to slick perfection and a little bit more drive to unique character would have made this wine even better (for me). Oh hell, I know … very sourpuss'y and petty! I better shut up! Best wine of the day! The second Teuton was a Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spätlese 2010 from Weingut Matthias Müller in Mittelrhein region. This one excited me with a combination of captivating fresh and lively acid, beautiful fruit sweetness and a decent amount of stony characteristics. The nose seemed a bit dull and weak'ish. However the important stuff - guess what - was very refined and well balanced. A really nice 2010 off-dry Riesling with a fair amount of complexity and not so much demand (which can be good from time to time!). This vintage: very decent ***** stuff! I wonder how this will be in low acid years ...!?!

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