Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, Martinborough

Endlich - es geht mal wieder so richtig weit weg ... Pinot-style! Einerseits geht es so richtig weit weg von Seiten einer gewissen fast schon nicht mehr zu überbietenden irdischen physischen Distanz und „zweierseits“ hinsichtlich einer persönlichen temporärer Distanz, welche sicherlich mit Leichtigkeit übertreffbar sein dürfte. Den Part der physischen Distanz soll heute ein Pinot Noir aus Martinborough in Neuseeland übernehmen. Die temporäre Distanz betrifft zwei Weine eines Herstellers der mich einstens in frisch-grauer Vorzeit zu der wunderbar verhängnisvollen Flüssigkeit burgundischen Pinot Noirs geführt hat.

Zunächst möchte ich ein wenig in physische Ferne schweifen! Mein heutiger „Pinot weit weg“ stammt von Craggy Range, einer der immer noch recht jungen Weinunternehmungen in Martinborough's Hawkes Bay Region im Süden der Nordinsel Neuseelands. Craggy Range verfolgt seit Anbeginn, immerhin seit dem Jahr 1997, einen Ansatz der darauf abzielt nur Einzellagenweine zu produzieren. Mein Einzellagen Pinot Noir stammt aus dem Te Muna Road Vineyard etwas außerhalb von Martinborogh Township. Die Bodenformationen im etwas höher gelegenen Pinot Noir Teil des Te Muna Road Vineyard sind sehr vielschichtig und karg. Vorherrschend sind mit unterschiedlichen Steinen (Alvi-Vulvic Vulkansteine, Arten von Ton und etwas Kalkstein) durchmischte schluffige Lehmböden. Beim Großteil der verwendenden Klone handelt es sich um fünf unterschiedlich Djon-Klone. Für den Jahrgang 2011 wurde 90 % des Traubenguts entrappt, in Stahltanks und offenen Holzbottichen vergoren und anschließend für 10 Monate in französischen Barriques (27% neue Fässer) ausgebaut. Na mal schauen wie sich dieser sicherlich noch junge Kiwi Pinot präsentiert hat …

Rully Tastealike? Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2005, Martinborough

Today I got a little evaluative re-tasting going on. The first time I mentioned this one was HERE. Approximately 7 months ago. The basic structure of this rather old world’ish Pinot from Martinborough remained more or less the same. This time it appeared to me a bit more aged. How astonishing!!! Yeah, right! Well, maybe a bit more aged (than expected) concerning its colour. This time it appeared to me far more red-brown and very murky.

Last summer I had a couple of very enjoyble Pinots from Africa, Aotearoa and California

Bouchard-Finlayson Galpine Peak Pinot Noir 2004, Walker Bay

Is this really Pinot Noir? Really? Well, at least it is a product from a coop between Bouchard Pere et Fils and Peter Finlayson - the former winemaker for Hamilton-Russel in Walker Bay. This Pinot wasn't even close to the attributes I interlink with Ham Rus Pinots. At first it gave me a lot of distress. It was wild, a bit aggressive, showed plenty of alcohol and was very much dominated by aromas of dried fruits. The first two hours I'd guess it could be an Amarone or something like that. After that period, a typical Sangiovese cherry flavour tendency developed. Very strange! On the second day it wasn't that aggressive anymore. Even some gentleness developed. Unfortunately there was still not a lot of acid present. This one might have provided the wine a better balance. The high amount of extract and concentration was definitely a plus, but if you are expecting a "normal - (and due to the price a high class)" Pinot you might get disappointed. The QPR is astoundingly miserable (approx. 30 Euros, today more something like 40 Euros).

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2005, Martinborough

For those who don't know. Martinborough is situated east of lake Wairarapa on the North Island of Aotearoa. The Runholder is Te Kairanga's basic Pinot. At first I got plenty of raspberries. Some hours later quite a lot of cherries and plums, too. A bit rustic maybe. Even some barn and cow flavours. Very nice acid (almost a bit too much) and plenty of semi-bodied strength. Clear aromas and some freshness resp. life were present as well. It might have reminded me of a stronger and more concentrated Pinot from Maconnais region. Or maybe a Rully? I guess, right now is a very good time for consumption. I am sure it'll last another year or so. The price is okay but not too great (approx. 20 Euros).

 


Belle Glos Winery Clarke & Telephone Vineyard 2005, Santa Maria Valley

Damn! This is something! A rather subtle example of an Central Coast Pinot. Apparently the Clark & Telephone Vineyard is one of the oldest Pinot cultivation areas in the AVA Santa Maria Valley (est. 1972). At first I got beautiful as well as powerful clear Pinot aromas. Plenty of juciy cherries, some oak, a hint of raspberries and almonds. It was charming, beguiling and almost aristocratic (in its particular own way of course). Its marmelade punch tendencies weren't too distinct. At the same time it appeared to have quiet a lot of spicy and rather fleshy flavours supplemented by some serious flavours of cinnamon. Very nice surprise for little money. At least for a Californian Pinot. (apporx. 30 Euros).