Saucy Summer Spaniards?
Seriously? Isn't that a bit of a very bold one! Not sure the
following content will be able to hold up with so much an
attention-grabbing headline!? But one thing is for sure! No
insignificant endless blather about the following potations … well, at
least I hope so! Let's not be so complicated and knowledge-drop'istic
as usual and stick to the essentials and just get the hell started:
The
Bodegas del Palacio Albarino d Fefinanes 2016 from Rias Baixas showed quite a
particle-rich straw yellow hue with minor green reflexes. Overall
rather radiantly appealing I should say. In the nose I got plenty of
ripe yellow pears. Really juicy one! In addition to this nasally
imagined juiciness I got mild herbs, a whiff of Granny Smith apples,
almond milk and some egg yoke. A rather rich and expressive nose with
a lot of precise and luckily non-over pacing body driven exuberance.
On the palate, again those ripe and yellow pears, some yellow kiwi,
vitalizing lemon - a bit sorbet'ish, a fine and mild - diffuse - herbal infusion,
fine salt and some surely damn fine creaminess! Here we have a fellow
who is ready to perform - however no problem to hold this for the
years to come - and just give it all. Not an intellectual or demanding
wine! Whatever, only freaks like me might look for something like that in wine! It's a soloist who is able to entertain your tongue for quite a
while. Absolutely decent ****, perhaps even very decent ***** …well,
something in between, let's not get too overexcited.
The
Cantocuerdas Albillo de Bernabelva 2017 from Madrid showed a lot of
exuberance as well. However in a very different “fashion“! Right from the beginning I was a bit sceptical about this one. I
poured a viscous stream of lush yellow with a few rosé'ish reflexes
into my glass. In the nose I got a lot of smoke, a potpourri of
fruits like unripe tangerine, kiwi and yellow gooseberries. All quite
exotic and a bit mash'y, pulpy and even heated. The impressions
laurel, fresh cut twigs and nettles contributed a certain amount of
fitting sternness which helped the nose not too appear all too fruit
driven, however it was still quite punchy! The occasional – not
always of course - detergent'y granite soil imprint was
rather evident as well. On the palate it appeared even more powerful
and pithy. The fruity characteristics were quite similar. I even got
some raisin flavours. The smoke was similar and power packed, too. Well, this one definitely showed a lot of substance, a
bit brute actually, very determined caramel'ish creaminess, tons
of youthful vigor and complex(ity). Unfortunately there was a bit too much alcoholic
tartness to this Albillo - although only 13,5% were indicated. I fear to write, absolutely not my preferred
style. However there was surely some quality to it. I recommend to
have yourself a big fat tortilla with it. I mean one of those big
things from the lovely old - and pretty famous - lady from a market
in Madrid who hasn't washed her tortilla pan in 30 or so years.
Rustic needs rustic...
The
Ailalá Treixadura 2016 from Ribeiro region in the North-West of
Spain opened a totally different wine world compared to the Albillo. The colour of the
Treixadura was rather stinging and intense yellow-green with a lot of
particles and at the beginning even some CO2. In the nose I got
myself a lot of lemon peel, cantaloupe, acacia honey, lemon sabayon,
a mild herbal touch of mustard seeds and wood bark and a certain
scent I'd like to associate with unused bandages. An aroma which you
occasionally can find in younger wines. On the palate much more of the sabayon - not sweet, lemons - not so much the peel, and the kiwi, and the cantaloupe
… hmm all very fruity, juicy and easy. However there was some
phenolic background going on, too. The mild herbal touch plus white
pepper appeared far more subdued than in the nose. Finish was solid!
Acid as well. Overall a fruit-driven, quite exotic, well balanced
easy drinking Summer Spaniard for little money. Definitely and quite surprisingly decent****. Potentially going along with all sorts of white meat and veggie dishes ... or just alone without distraction.
The
Sierra de Tolono Blanco 2018 produced from 100% Viura was a rather
simple structured and strangely light Rioja Blanco. The colour was
pretty pale, extra bright yellow at its best and rather watery. In
the nose I got some green bananas, wood bark, mineral water and lemon
peel. Reminded me of a extra lame Vermentino with whishy-washy
personality. Its taste was equally simple. Surely it seemed fresh -
even a bit crisp – with a presumed hint of acid. A lot of thin
green banana flavours, a bit of pale yellow apple, some shy white flowers and some white
pepper. Quite flat body and short finish with a lot of support from
aromas which reminded me of Volvic mineral water. A very
interchangeable southern European white wine which should go along
quite well with all sorts of seafood. Of course it is still really
young, but I can't find a lot of potential in this one! Isn't more
than a simple food companion. Perhaps still a so la la *** Viura
without a lot of aspirations.
Olivier
Rivière's El Bastid 2017 Rioja Blanco made from Viura, Malvasia and
Garnacha Blanca showed what Rioja Blanco should taste like. Its
colour was bright yellow with a few green reflexes. The nose
convinced me with airy exotic fruits – mostly cantaloupe and rich lime.
Compared to the other Saucy Spaniards the Bastid showed a very
convincing herbal backbone. I got a lot of cumin, sage, mustard seeds
and hints of dried grass. A very youthful expressive and surprisingly
dense nose pattern. On the palate very fruity, juicy and creamy
supported by kicking acid! Flavours are pretty much the same. This
one has definitely a bright future in the years ahead. Really decent**** stuff! Love to have this one with some local sweet water fish or
an expressive fennel-veggie dish.
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