8.8.19

Saucy Summer Spaniards



Saucy Summer Spaniards? Seriously? Isn't that a bit of a very bold one! Not sure the following content will be able to hold up with so much an attention-grabbing headline!? But one thing is for sure! No insignificant  endless blather about the following potations … well, at least I hope so! Let's not be so complicated and knowledge-drop'istic as usual and stick to the essentials and just get the hell started: 


The Bodegas del Palacio Albarino d Fefinanes 2016 from Rias Baixas showed quite a particle-rich straw yellow hue with minor green reflexes. Overall rather radiantly appealing I should say. In the nose I got plenty of ripe yellow pears. Really juicy one! In addition to this nasally imagined juiciness I got mild herbs, a whiff of Granny Smith apples, almond milk and some egg yoke. A rather rich and expressive nose with a lot of precise and luckily non-over pacing body driven exuberance. On the palate, again those ripe and yellow pears, some yellow kiwi, vitalizing lemon - a bit sorbet'ish, a fine and mild - diffuse - herbal infusion, fine salt and some surely damn fine creaminess! Here we have a fellow who is ready to perform - however no problem to hold this for the years to come - and just give it all. Not an intellectual or demanding wine! Whatever, only freaks like me might look for something like that in wine! It's a soloist who is able to entertain your tongue for quite a while. Absolutely decent ****, perhaps even very decent ***** …well, something in between, let's not get too overexcited.

The Cantocuerdas Albillo de Bernabelva 2017 from Madrid showed a lot of exuberance as well. However in a very different “fashion“! Right from the beginning I was a bit sceptical about this one. I poured a viscous stream of lush yellow with a few rosé'ish reflexes into my glass. In the nose I got a lot of smoke, a potpourri of fruits like unripe tangerine, kiwi and yellow gooseberries. All quite exotic and a bit mash'y, pulpy and even heated. The impressions laurel, fresh cut twigs and nettles contributed a certain amount of fitting sternness which helped the nose not too appear all too fruit driven, however it was still quite punchy! The occasional – not always of course - detergent'y granite soil imprint was rather evident as well. On the palate it appeared even more powerful and pithy. The fruity characteristics were quite similar. I even got some raisin flavours. The smoke was similar and power packed, too. Well, this one definitely showed a lot of substance, a bit brute actually, very determined caramel'ish creaminess, tons of youthful vigor and complex(ity). Unfortunately there was a bit too much alcoholic tartness to this Albillo - although only 13,5% were indicated. I fear to write, absolutely not my preferred style. However there was surely some quality to it. I recommend to have yourself a big fat tortilla with it. I mean one of those big things from the lovely old - and pretty famous - lady from a market in Madrid who hasn't washed her tortilla pan in 30 or so years. Rustic needs rustic...

The Ailalá Treixadura 2016 from Ribeiro region in the North-West of Spain opened a totally different wine world compared to the Albillo. The colour of the Treixadura was rather stinging and intense yellow-green with a lot of particles and at the beginning even some CO2. In the nose I got myself a lot of lemon peel, cantaloupe, acacia honey, lemon sabayon, a mild herbal touch of mustard seeds and wood bark and a certain scent I'd like to associate with unused bandages. An aroma which you occasionally can find in younger wines. On the palate much more of the sabayon - not sweet, lemons - not so much the peel, and the kiwi, and the cantaloupe … hmm all very fruity, juicy and easy. However there was some phenolic background going on, too. The mild herbal touch plus white pepper appeared far more subdued than in the nose. Finish was solid! Acid as well. Overall a fruit-driven, quite exotic, well balanced easy drinking Summer Spaniard for little money. Definitely and quite surprisingly decent****. Potentially going along with all sorts of white meat and veggie dishes ... or just alone without distraction.

The Sierra de Tolono Blanco 2018 produced from 100% Viura was a rather simple structured and strangely light Rioja Blanco. The colour was pretty pale, extra bright yellow at its best and rather watery. In the nose I got some green bananas, wood bark, mineral water and lemon peel. Reminded me of a extra lame Vermentino with whishy-washy personality. Its taste was equally simple. Surely it seemed fresh - even a bit crisp – with a presumed hint of acid. A lot of thin green banana flavours, a bit of pale yellow apple, some shy white flowers and some white pepper. Quite flat body and short finish with a lot of support from aromas which reminded me of Volvic mineral water. A very interchangeable southern European white wine which should go along quite well with all sorts of seafood. Of course it is still really young, but I can't find a lot of potential in this one! Isn't more than a simple food companion. Perhaps still a so la la *** Viura without a lot of aspirations.

Olivier Rivière's El Bastid 2017 Rioja Blanco made from Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca showed what Rioja Blanco should taste like. Its colour was bright yellow with a few green reflexes. The nose convinced me with airy exotic fruits – mostly cantaloupe and rich lime. Compared to the other Saucy Spaniards the Bastid showed a very convincing herbal backbone. I got a lot of cumin, sage, mustard seeds and hints of dried grass. A very youthful expressive and surprisingly dense nose pattern. On the palate very fruity, juicy and creamy supported by kicking acid! Flavours are pretty much the same. This one has definitely a bright future in the years ahead. Really decent**** stuff! Love to have this one with some local sweet water fish or an expressive fennel-veggie dish.

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