It' about time to continue my hyper
"Happening Now Tasting" auchtonotous palatal trip throughout Europe's wine nations (at snail
pace I am afraid). Today I’d like to stick to local waters! Germany! Roter Riesling or
Red Riesling from Württemberg! Roter Riesling is an ancient mutation
of Weisser Riesling (aka the well-known Rhine Riesling). At present
there are, or better there are again – because since 2002 it got a
little bit more fashionable again, round about 30 ha of Roter
Riesling in all German viticultural areas combined. The
amphelographic features of this red fellow are mostly identical to
the ones of its famous white relative. Well, apart of the colour of
the skin. Obviously! The hue does look a bit like the one of Pinot
Gris. It is believed that the origins of Roter Rieslings are in the
River Rhine valley between Karlsruhe and Worms. Today's one comes
from the Remstal in Württemberg. The vines for Weingut Bernhard
Ellwanger's Großheppacher Steingrüble Roter Riesling 2014 are round
about 5 years old. So, not even a teenager. Let's have our first sip
...
5:18
pm (popped and poured)
Colour: lush straw'ish yellow colour with a slight notion of copper (perhaps, or just in my head)
Nose: yellow grapefruit, caramelized sugar, apple peel, some hay, hint of baby powder, freshly cut twigs, dextro energy; so far a bit rustic and rather bold
Taste: grapefruit, much more dextro energy, strong smoke, some red-brown apples (a bit caramelized – some sort of baked apple danish), aromas are a bit shy at the moment, solid but not too strong acid, realtivly heavy and rough body, kinda phenolic; overall a bit crude and snappy
8:32
pm
Nose: much more grapefruit zesty, smoke, dextro energy not so strong anymore (luckily), emerging elderberry syrup (not really sweet), greenery still active
Taste: also zesty grapefruit, stronger smoke (sea smoke), less dextro energy, mineral characteristics much stronger now - quite crude ones, somehow I am under the impression of some mild tannins (?), aromas of apples in retreat, same for the caramelized flavours; pretty heavy and robust stuff right now, acid seems more zippy
11:01 am (the day after)
Nose: a bit more sweet and gentle than yesterday, dextro is gone, smoke quiet; overall more integrated - anyway still a rather rustic and rough white
Taste: still rather zippy and snappy but definitely more leveled out than yesterday - slightly sour, grapefruit totally dominant, vital twigs, nice smoke, body is still pretty pretty big and rough
8:23
pm
Nose:
as a matter effect it is really getting more and more likeable;
rather gentle and a bit blossomy, smoke seems rather suitable; the
overall rustic character is remaining - however in a much more
interesting way
Taste:
pretty much the same, perhaps a little bit more integrated, mellow
and not as tense as before
No substantial development in the past hours. So time for my short résumé Overall an interesting Riesling without being a "common" Riesling. This Rote Riesling had a firm body, rustic characteristics, was a bit snappy and showed notable mineral attributes. Its nose was much more multi-layered and balanced. To me a very solid so la-la*** wine with character and robust charme. Hard to compare with "common" Riesling, I guess ...
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