In the newest “edition”
of “Happening Now Tasting“ it is time for some little Red Hock.
As you already might have realized – I am not the biggest fan of
German Pinot Noir resp. Spätburgunder in general. These wines aren't
well represented one my personal wine list. Not to speak of writing
about them ... - Anyway! Today I'd like to make an exception and try my
luck with a highly aged 1999 Spätburgunder from Rheingau Region. Let's
check it out, this Künstler Pinot ...
6:56 pm (just opened)
Colour: very transparent,
pale and a bit red brown'ish colour towards the rim, in the core
still vital bright ruby red
Nose: a bit sleepy, hope
not dead (although would be such a surprise), smoke, very ripe and
dark raisin'ish strawberry fruit, tobacco, a bit cabbage and a few
matches. A rather light and definitely not ugly nose impression so
far.
Taste: rather tart and
lean fellow, touch of smokiness, some herbs plus a little bit of
cabbage, few traces of Finnish liquorice (luckily), slightly mute
strawberries (not as ripe and heat stressed as the nose predicted)
with some vigor left, still gentle acid; so to speak not a lot of
pressure on the palate, close to mediocre finish; luckily there isn't
any bitterness or indications for total excess of age. I am very
happy to declare:
Alive! ... mostly
8:11 pm
Nose: no significant aroma
or character shifts, perhaps a little bit degrading
Taste: the
herbaceous-tobacco flavours are gaining ground - so far no surprise,
however still somehow in its own particular way it is holding up and
appears enjoyable (to a certain extent). Those rather mute fruit
flavours are still present, but more diffuse now, still no real
bitterness or major age-issues; I think this Pinot is about to say
farewell within the next minutes …
(Premature) Conclusion:
still alive – once again Künstler is showing that his wines need time
(even the red ones), in this case it was maybe a little bit too much time; the style was lean, a bit stern, not too fresh,
surely not complicated or intellectual, not too short and rather ripe (concerning the fruit); I dare to
write: the Künstler handwriting is noticeable; for me a definitely
drinkable so la-la *** Spätburgunder experience. Have had far worse
Pinot from big Teutonic (wine)names.
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