Last week it was time for an inevitable situation! A kind of situation I personally don't like: Contest situations. Of course in the end a pretty dumb undertaking! Especially in terms of wine. Whatever, a bit of suspense never hurts! What kind of contest? A contest situation featuring my new Pinot Noir-Adoration Oregon Pinot versus a wild assortment of Burgundians from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Morey-Saint-Denis, Savigny-Les-Beaune etc. and the 4th Teutonic Tinto!
Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Pinot Noir 2007, Eola-Amity Hills
My
second Evesham Wood so far. The Le Puits Sec is a single vineyard wine from
Eola-Amity Hills AVA a bit north-west of Salem.
The 25 year old vines (Pommard clones 113, 114, 115, 777) were cultivated on rather
shallow volcanic basalt soils and since 2000 farmed under organic principles.
The
colour of the Le Puits Sec was super radiant, very vital and almost shockingly
bright (probably a 2007 thing). No clear signs of aging in the coronal region.
I have to confess a really attractive hue. Doesn't happen so often to me. The nose seemed reserved
and impassable in the first few hours. Maybe some traces of typical Oregon funk and cowshed impressions were
largly apparent. These impressions eased after a while and very subtle fragrances (or
even mild perfume) of bright red berries and gentle rosé-white flowers evolved. Besides that I
was under the impression of a diffuse cold spring morning in the countryside. Don’t
really know how to elaborate this impression in an adequately manner. The taste was rather filigree,
super vitalizing, full of various subtle and lean fruit flavours (the usual
suspects) and mildly equipped with flavours of wet forest floor and volcanic minerals.
The acid was highly “difficile” and invigorating. Oh hell, I don’t want to repeat
myself over and over again. That is why I better shut up! Just one thing:
refined, subtle, filigree, long lasting, floral’y clear fruitful, vital and quiet (or
shy) Pinot Noir! Don’t expect a softy or swanky or full bodied or Sugar Baby New
World Pinot!
PS:
Again, an absolutely different style compared to the other Oregon Pinots I presented
so far on this blog!
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Forets Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2003
Probably
a bit of an experiment! I am not really a big fan of this vintage. On the other
hand I haven’t had so many aged ones either. Most of the Burgs, including some
really big shit growths, I have tasted at a young stage did not really conquer
my heart. This however seemed to have some certain appealing and complex
qualities. The colour of the Clos des Forets was as I’ve expected it to be:
plenty of discolourations, a bit flat and murky. In the first hours the nose
appeared very dusty muddy fruitful (not boiled, more dried fruits), a bit earthy and
smoky, not really super complex and rather sweet (not for 2003s). Later (approx. 8 hours) more subtle
fragrances of dried fruits, traces of coffee, reduced Christmas herbs and dusty
forest feelings evolved up and above my expectations. The taste underwent a
rather similar evolution. At first a bit bovine, almost hot and very much
characterized by dried fruits. Later a very firm, dark, strong (not
overpowered), highly ripe fruit character accompanied with coffee, dark earth,
Christmas’y herbs and dark choco flavours evolved. For me a rather cunning output
for a 2003 NSG. At no time I felt disgusted or disgruntled by any hot, boiled, weak
in acid, superimposed or super sweet aromas. The complexity gained with the actual
“business hours” (especially on the second day!), the length was very decent and the overall balance smooth, but toned.
Very enjoyable, a bit mildly sweetened and "not that weak" Pinot Noir which was
totally different to the Le Puits Sec. Hard to compare those two wines. For me
it had no chance to get at the level of sophistication (a term I wouldn't use in association with the NSG) and complexity of the
Evesham Wood.
Domaine Forey Morey-Saint-Denis 2002
Pity!
Slight flaw triggered by cork influence. Besides this defect I got the
impression of a rather strong and for a village very concentrated character. Unlike
many 2002 Pinots the stern'ish acid seemed not that dominating. Other impressions were a rather
coarse and slightly awkward structure, a bit too boozy, well equipped with
smoke and full of moist undergrowth (maybe enforced by the defect!) Not a really
filigree, complex or elegant representative of a Morey-Saint-Denis!
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Savigny-Champ-Chevery 1er Cru 2002
Very good
and successful example for the Tollot-Beaut house style. A posterboy for a
combination of good accessibility and more than just decent quality. The colour
looked astoundingly young, radiant, a bit dark and very juicy. The nose was absolutely
balanced, very ballsy, fruitful (mostly juicy dark cherries), not too subtle,
but in its own way expressive and slick-elegant. Absolutely nothing to bitch about. The inspiring qualities were limited. The taste was well crafted. Very
round and soft with decent subtleness, nicely relaxed fruit flavours of dark
cherries and hints of dark autumnal herbs. Maybe here and there some backward
oak flavours as well. The concentration seemed very balanced, the acid
remarkably tamed (for a 2002 Burg) and the finish well put. The actual complexity
wasn’t highly demanding, but certainly not faceless. I might describe
this as a modern “interpretation” of red Burgundy. I probably don’t want to loose any
word about the good old terroir characteristics. It’s an overstretch term and
not really applying to this wine. I most definitely enjoyed this wine very
much. However, for me it can’t touch the astounding high complexity and quiet sophistication
of the Le Puits Sec!
Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne Rouge 2005
Definitely a classic! At first the it appeared very
reserved, a bit dairy’ish, maybe a bit barn’y and tart. Later it was characterized by nice
dark berries, lean black cherries, a rather relaxed and outward classical style,
very well balanced acid and a vital semi concentrated body. Easy going complexity
with contenting finish. Could use one or two more years to evolve to a possible
peak performance. Not a high-flyer, but still a decent Bourgogne from an extraordinary beautiful vintage.
Weinfamilie Fendt Spätburgunder Zwei Null Neun 2009, Baden
A Pinot from a wine project orchestrated by the sommelier of a 3 star restaurant in the depths of the northern Black Forest. A rather unusual and pretty juvenile seeming Pinot Noir with a lean, cool and acidic character. Nose
like taste seemed rather obtrusive (perhaps influenced by the high alcohol,
14%), too smoky and a bit bitter. The fruit flavours were dominated by dark
berries and very lean and dry cherries. Besides these impressions I sensed a
fair amount of greenery flavours. Maybe too young, but in the end definitely
not my cup of Pinot! Too pretentious in its own leaner way! Probably an alcohol (+ a bit young) issue ...
Weingut Fürst Weissburgunder Pur Mineral 2011, Franken
Had just a few sips for refreshment purposes. Rather stern, poor in fruit, decently mineral, quite lean and very stainless. Opend a day or so in advance. Better no rating ;-)
Misson Accomplished!
Oregon Rules (at least this time)!
Nice tasting! Thanks for showing guys!
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