It has been
a while since I had my last Teutonic Tinto. This time I will give one of my favorite Teutonic Pinot Noir producers a chance. I have chosen the mid-range
Pinot Noir from 2007 which was made from French clones and cultivated in the Herrenstück
vineyard in Kaiserstuhl subregion of Baden.
The rim
seemed rather watery. However the actual corona and core was very vital and not
as aged as the watery rim indicated. The nose was typical for Holger
Koch wines. Rather cool, not smoky, lean - but firm, pretty vivid, relaxed
fruitful, elegant, cheery and flowery (violets and a few roses). Nowhere near any superimposition,
over-oaking, exaggerated ripeness or over-extraction! Some rather common problems
of German Pinot Noirs (sometimes or perhaps a bit more often than just sometimes). Naturally, these
characteristics continued in my wine-hole. Holger Koch's Pinot Noir appeared very lively, streaked
by a very convincing and vivid acid, showed a well - but probably relatively lean -
structured body, was energetically gripping and equipped with a nice amount of sophistication
and simple elegance. The fruit flavours were dominated by precise and clear strawberry and aged
raspberry flavours which appeared to me as very calm and relaxed. Not tart, but surely not mellow or sweet-fruity. The mineral characteristics
were most definitely Kaiserstuhl-like (maybe a bit more limy than others), but in a far more civilized and set-back
style. Unlike so many Fat-Pinot-Ducks you may find once in a while down on this vulcanic emperor-chair (= Kaiserstuhl). I think, overall it was a very nice, probably not really very complex
Pinot Noir with a nice refreshing character and an above average finish. Really
decent and joy providing stuff!
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