Auto' x International Turkish Delight? Kavaklidere Narince-Chardonnay 2010, Central Anatolia and plenty of other whites

This time it had to be a wild assortment of white'sters from Turkey, France and Germany. Some really nice surprises and maybe one slight disappointment. 

Kavaklidere Vinart Narince-Chardonnay 2010, Central Anatolia

Kavaklidere is one of the big shots in the Turkish wine business. Actually, this one wasn’t my first wine from them. I had several so far. One even on this blog. This however, and most definitely a bit unfortunate, appeared a bit disappointing - or more precise raw and dull at the same time. The material for this white blend was grown on Cappadocian soil in Central Anatolia. The varietals were the pretty often noble auto’ grape called Narince and the global player Chardonnay.

The colour of this mostly autochthonous blend (Narince is the big player) looked somehow cold and showed plenty of bright yellow greenish reflexes. The nose was dominated by scents of white flowers, camomile tea with honey, milk, stems and mild herbs. Well, I guess the taste was the problem. It seemed, for me, inharmonious, slightly alcoholic, very crude and pithy. I got flavours steely green pepper, violent green lemons, fresh grass, traces of almond milk and a bit of cream. The concentration and strength of the mentioned flavours weren’t that impressive. A little bit more expression would have been nice. What did I forget? The character was hyper dry, very lean, very acidic and blessed with a bit too much booze. Maybe something decent for seafood or so!?! Definitely no soloist! Probably the most boring wine from Turkey I had so far. You can find better ones. Even on this very blog ;-). Sorry, no Turkish delight!

Domaine des Roches Neuves L'Insolite 2007, Saumur Blanc

A Chenin Blanc classic! This one was one of the nice surprises! Although - Chenin Blanc!?! ;-)

The Insolite was aurum coloured and seemed nicely aged. At first the nose presented itself as very reserved, a bit clinical clean and herbaceous. Later, probably 2 hours, a more red apple and flowery nose awakened. Pretty much the same counts for the taste! At first, a bit rough and very reserved. Not really lively, apart of the mineral characteristics - maybe. Later, a potpourri of well ripened red apples, an almost sublime smoke, limy mineral earthy stuff and other anonymous nice wintry flavours evloved. Good length, good balance, good concentration, good expression and damn good time for consumption! Nice one!

Weingut Reinholt & Cornelia Schneider Weißer Burgunder Spätlese Trio *** 2008, Baden

The colour seemed very bright and almost colourless. The bouquet was reserved (throughout the whole 3 hours), very soft, in some way white'ish, delicate, blossomy and very unostentatious. Maybe a bit too delicate! The taste was more convincing, but not really winning. It had a nice proportion of acid, a lean and soft body, showed freshness and nice fruit flavours of white peaches as well as some lemons and mild honeysuckle. Not really a lot of oak influences. A rather delicate, well balanced and quiet Pinot Blanc. Just fine!

Weingut Jos. Christoffel Junior (Christoffel-Prüm) Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese ** 1988, Mosel

And an oldie from Wehlen! I saw a “tinted”, but fresh seeming colour. The nose was decently intriguing. It showed plenty of well aged and typical conk impressions. I got nice spices, local herbs, muted smoke and beautiful fragrances of yellow exotic fruits. The taste was just as expected. Still full of life, some smoke, vibrating (but civilized) acid, gentle nutty or almondy characteristics, typical lean creaminess and galore of very well aged fruit flavours. Mostly exotic ones like passion fruit, pine apple, a few overripe lemons, but a few domestic ones like red apples, too. Not super dimensional or complicated, but absolutely pleasing and “refreshing”. Quaffability at its best!

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