INOX and Pinot Noir aren't a very
fashionable combo these days, I think. Well, at least in case of
sincerely mentionable wines of certain quality. Living in south-west Germany I
am perfectly aware that there are plenty of Pinots which were
fermented and aged in stainless steel ... and possibly even heated-up in
steel. I really don't want to get into details. It's just too sad ...Today, I
would like to refer to a respectable Pinot which were simply kissed by
cold steel. I have to admit, I don't know many. On a recent trip to
Barcelona I had the pleasure to encounter such a respectable one. The
Biu de Sort Negre 2015 produced by Batlliu de Sort in the small
Catalan wineregion of Costers del Segre is one nice example that
Pinot from steel can be pretty enchanting. First, let me tell you something about
Costers del Segre. I assume that not every wine geek on the globe is
all too familiar with this relatively new wine region (DO was est.
1988). Costers del Segre is located in the province of Lleyda in the
very west of Catalonia. It is a rather scattered region which
stretches out over the entire central west of Catalonia (approx. 4500
hectares). The climate of the region is somehow extreme. In winter it is getting easily below 0° C. In summer equally easily over 35° C. Heavy rainstorms (aka snowstorms), droughts, hail and spring frosts are well know as well. The soils of the region are dominated by meagre dark lime soils. So were the vines for the Biu Negre 2015 cultivated
on calcerous soils at an elevation of approx. 850 m above sea-level
in Sort - Pallars Sobirà (right next to Andorra) which is by the way already in the high
Pyrenees. Fermentation took place in large INOX deposits and
subsequent ageing in INOX took about 10 months. Let's have a look how
this Pinot made in steel was ...
Right from the start the bright and
quite murky - almost natural wine kind'sh – hue of the Biu Negre
2015 seemed really appealing to me. Its slightly orange'y red
reflexes and a whole lot of fine particles might have contributed to
my assumed „naturalistic“ impression. The grapes were cultivated
following organic principles (not certified ones). No idea how far
they went "further". Anyway, the dominant fragrances of my Catalan
Pinot were freshly crushed strawberries and raspberries as well as
shy supplementary aromas of oranges and orange zests. An additional
aroma which I'd like to call cucumber water wasn't lacking either.
Not sure how to describe this sensation in a general intelligible
way. All together a downright cool, lean, fruitful and crisp nasal
performance. Luckily it was far off from any possible heat stress
(marmelade or whatsoever) which some people might expect of a Pinot
from such southern origin. On the palate it appeared even more crisp
and lean. Surprising! Unlike any other Catalan/Spanish Pinot I've ever had so
far. Blindfolded I would have never ever located this one to southern
Europe. Well indulged with super fresh fruit flavours of red berries and a few
tangerines the Biu Negre was already able to show its (close to) full mainly fruit driven
potential. Besides those dominant fruitful aromas I got underlying
aromas of freshly grounded coffee, a mild flintiness for some reason, some black pepper and very reduced
herbal aromas which I might associate with northern Europe, but not
the Mediteranian. Structurewise it wasn't all to complex or
profoundly gripping. It was light, vivid, very clear as well as precise and totally straightforward. Its
true qualities came straight from the very untainted fruitful
flavours which I considered to be really convincing. To me already
very well balanced and ready for a lot of pleasure. Don't hold it for
all to long! I think it wasn't made for a very long life. Surely a decent**** Pinot, and much more important an unexpected crisp Catalan
surprise.
Next time I will go a even further south, approx. 1100 km south-west to be a little bit more precise, and have another Pinot Noir from Lisbon region.
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