On the “Happening
Now Tasting” posts ahead I plan to send my tongue on a
voyage of discovery to wine-growing regions with hyper
autochthonous and scarcely existing grape
varietals. Today I'd like to start with a “test subject” from the
South-West of France. In Galliac there is a
variety named Prunelart. Prunelart is a
small-berry and dark blue variety which is almost extinct. Until the
phylloxera crisis Prunelart was one of the most widespread varietals
in Galliac. Today only 10 to 12 hectares are still in cultivation in
the entire Sud-Ouest. Prunelart shows distinct similarities to
Malbec. Genetically (alongside Magdeleine Noire des Charentes the co
parent of Malbec) as well as aromatically (I'll taste the possible
resemblance soon). The main reason for Prunelart's imminent extiction
- besides the effects of phylloxera - might be its capricious
nature. Especially Plasmopara viticola and Botrytis cinerea
are two of its unfortunate frequent visitors.
Today's “test object”
was produced by Bernard Plageoles of Domaine
des Tres Cantous (or just Domaine Plageoles).
The densely cultivated vines (approx. 5000 vines per hectare) are
growing on gravely loamy soils in Galliac region. After fermentation
the „Le Prunelart“ 2009 was aged for 12
months in concrete tanks on its lees. Well, let's have a curious look
…
6:32
pm (opened about 20 minutes ago without decanting)
Colour:
more red than black, rather bloody (very fresh looking), not so many
particles visible, not totally tinted, overall just semi-opaqueness
Nose:
pretty “offensive” bright red currant, partly jamy-boiled, some
honey (!?), traces of rose leaves, a hint of iodine (slight medical
character), plenty of diffuse green characteristics; so far very
nervous and by far not all too balanced, appears very juvenile
Taste:
tense, highly astringent, weirdly very fruitful, the intense red
currant seems a bit darker on the palate, for me a bit too much
ethereal alcohol, plenty of smoked beef, privet hedge, rather tart,
raunchy tannins, pretty obtrusive and sauvage, so far very green and
green horn'ish and astoundingly unnerving
8:12
pm
Nose:
getting more fruitful and more influenced by forest berries, the
touch of red currant is still elaborate however a bit on retreat,
gentle and classy appearing smoke is evolving; still mostly nervous,
on the road to a better future (I guess)
Taste:
the fruitful characteristics is getting more raisin'ish, hot and
rich, besides this evo aromas pimento and tart choco are evolving,
tannins are still very hard, astringent and the touch of alcohol is
getting a bit stronger (perhaps even a bit smutty); still very wild
and inharmonious stuff
9:47
pm
Nose:
the beef character is starting to feel a bit incinerated and coupled
with charcoal attributes, the actual fruit fragrances seem to ease a
bit, not as intense as before, the herbal touch seems to gain ground,
now I got plenty of pimento, cloves and dried thyme; heading in the
right direction
Taste:
the intense fruitful character is reducing (luckily), pimento,
cloves, musk and various other mostly savage associations are
emerging more subtle and stronger, acid is still very vivid and
tannins are lightly beastly; getting better … slowly
6:02
pm (the day after)
Nose:
a far more substantial shift happened overnight, now the fruit seems
darker more earthed and overall more subtle, by far not as nervous as
yesterday, the actual fragrances haven't changed so much; the nose is
far more approachable and likeable, although still rather unique
composition of various nasal aromas
Taste:
the acid is still heavily lively, but the hard tannins seem by far
more sedated, the charcoal attributes appear more profound and
cunning, all in all the fruit flavours seem darker, besides that a
certain hint of bloodiness is evolving, AND now a promising mineral
character including some Finn liquorice saltiness is hitting the
palatal stage – very substantial shift here; today the Prunelart
appears far sound and digestible
Anyway, this Le Prunelart
2009 from Domaine Plageoles is still extremely young and probably not
in the best shape possible. I suggest to leave
it alone for a couple of years.
Still a rather entertaining
and educating
“Happening Now Tasting”!
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