A few years back I bought
a couple of Terre Nere wines from Etna region on Sicily. Over the
years I tasted plenty of their wines during several occasions and was
pretty much always quite pleased about their entire collection. That
might have been a good reason which explains the acquisition of more
than just (my) regular amount of bottles. Or maybe it was the seductive
phrase on the back label: “Borgogna del Mediterrano”. Who knows? Doesn't matter anyway! Today I would like to start with the entry
level red Cru from Terre Nere. The Etna Rosso 2008 was made from younger
Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Mantellato (in later vintage this one was
substituted by Nerello Cappuccio) vines from the steep volcanic (obviously!) slopes of Mount Etna. The higher qualities are
produced from 40 to 140 year old autochtonous vines! What else to know? Aging took place in large French oak and cultivation following organic principles since 2002. Let's check it
out:
The
Etna Rosso's colour appeared pretty much Borgogna-Pinot-Ruby-Rosso.
The vital nose impressed with very lively fragrances of not all too
dried dark cherries. Some juiciness was still evident. Besides this
fruitful character I got very solid fragrances of young juniper,
black pepper, moist clay (?), traces of undergrowth and who would
have thought: matches – freshly ignited matches! Concerning the
nose - those back lable Borgogna
associations faded a bit. The actual scents of the Etna Rosso were
overall a bit too ripe and probably far too spicy and maybe even
raunchy to mistake them with a Burgundy Pinot Noir. The taste wasn't
as wild and earthy as the nasal impressions. There was quite a buttload of
intriguingly fruitful succulence in this wine. Still a bit wild and spicy, but
brimful with very charming and slightly sweet dark cherry fruit and
ripe bramble flavours. It was almost a bit too liqueur'y and warm - not alcoholic! But
just – almost! In this case I enjoyed this warm and mellow feature very much.
I guess, this had to do with its very well balanced acid structure
and its still rather juvenile appearing tannins. There was a sertain drive to those! The finish was
surprisingly long, but not as shifty and complex as I would expect it
from a grand Pinot di Borgogna. Oh, back to those back label
connotations! Well, to me that does not matter at all! First: because this
wine has - apart of some structural similarities - not so much to do
with Pinot Noir and second: considering its already great quality
it'll be very keen to demand more complexity! With a price of 9 Euros
it is shockingly reasonable and I can't imagine how to expect more
out of this great wine! For sure a very decent ***** experience and
compared to other vintages of the Rosso Etna from Terre Nere far more
substantial, more concentrated and less thin'ish playful! Maybe the
Nerello Mantanello share? I dunno ….!
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