Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir Laurène 1996, Willamette Valley

Over the last few days there was a bit of a Pinot unfriendly weather. At last – it's summertime! So, I retreated into my cellar to get myself a pretty special Oregon treat. About a week ago I had the opportunity to acquire an aged bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir: Domaine Drouhin Laurène Pinot Noir 1996. So far, I never had such an old Pinot from “New-Burgundy”. Understandably I was really excited about it. Let's waist no more time … a glass, pls!

Before I start with my usual tasting note blather - just a few words about the Pinot and its vintage. Laurène was the big shot Pinot Noir of Domaine Drouhin (since 1999 there is the even “big shot'ier” Louise Pinot). Most vines (Pommard and Wädenswil clones) for this cuvée were planted in 1988 in Dundee Hills. The vintage 1996 was the forth vintage of this wine. A rather cool summer caused a long ripening period. The lasts weeks in late September and early October were mild and dry. This period helped the vines (and of course the human factor) to perform a very good job. Harvest took place between September 30^th and October 16^th. For fermentation all grapes were 100 % de-stemmed and only indigenous yeasts were used. Ageing took place in 20 % new oak barrels. Now ...

The Laurène Pinot showed plenty of discolourations. Obviously! The corona was red-brown amber'ish. The core had far more vital seeming ruby red colour left. It was an overall rather bright red Pinot with a few dark particles and cork sediments. At first its bouquet seemed a little bit reluctant to show its possible splendour. There was a bit of shy haystack, a few matches, some veggie fragrances, charcoal and un peu sous-bois oregon'ignon. About an hour later there was some development towards shy fragrances of bright-berries and a few delicate flowers. By then it wasn't as austere as it was before. There was a far more integrated and charming nose-picture during the following three hours. After that most of the aromas vanished into oblivion. In the first 30 minutes the taste was reserved and did not really convince me with its stern veggie flavours - at first! After a while some aged agents like undergrowth, mild mushrooms, hints of coffee powder, a few green vegetable flavours and an overall gentle tartness evolved. Even some traces of semi-dark cherries looked out from under the earthy components. Later on, more smokiness, cola flavours and very mild and shy red berry flavours evolved, too. There was still quite a lot of firm grandpa'ish strength, grip and an impressive structure in this Lauréne. The structure seemed playful light (not geriatric), somehow sublime'ish, very smooth (not totally levelled tannins though) and equipped with a surprisingly long lasting finish. Even the acid seemed very animating and considering its age really fresh. Most certainly there was a certain touch of elegant Burgundy evident. This aged Laurène Pinot Noir was a fascinating experience. I suppose one or two years earlier this wine would have been even more fascinating. If you got one left in the cellar you know what you got to do! Anyway a very decent ***** Pinot Noir with plenty to tell for a few hours. After approx. five hours it said ... Adieu!