This time I
got three very different and partly highly unusual Pinot Noirs for you. The
headliner comes from Isonzo region in the east of Italy right on the border to
Slovenia. Bedsides this one, I got a Swiss Pinot fellow made by Jürg Saxer from Zurich
and an admittedly far more expensive German fellow from Pfalz region produced
by Bernd Philippi from Koehler-Ruprecht. The last one has been called up as a late replacement for another more simple minded fellow from Pfalz
region (-> cork).
Azienda Agricola Matteo
Braidot Pinot Nero Vecchio Confine 2009, Isonzo
Matteo
Braidot is a relatively large (approx. 250 acre) wine producing company in Friuli-Venezia. Their variety expands from classical Italian
wines, predominately white ones, up to various growths produced from originally French
grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. Today’s wine is one interesting
and unique example for such an international, I may call it, experiment. The
Pinot Nero V.V. is supposed to be a light and easy to drink Pinot. Just like my
header might imply. Well, after I opened the bottle I wasn’t all too sure about
that anymore. Its colour was very dark for a Pinot. Hardly any transparency at
all! The bouquet made everything crystal clear. I smelled dark juicy cherries, olives, black pepper, sweet red paprika, rosemary and thyme. I assume
a rather unusual fragrance pattern for a Pinot!?! The taste revealed even more of
the already mentioned sweet red paprika, hints of black olives and strong dark
cherries. The herbal flavours were not that expressive. The complexity and
concentration was medium at the most. Pretty strong acid and some hard tannin
were still present. A finish was there, but not an all too long lasting one. So, what
can I tell you about this “Pinot Noir”? It was very very very unusual! Never
use that in a blind tasting! I guess everybody will fail to allocate this one
to the Pinot family. For me it tasted like a light Super Tuscan blend made from
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. After some hours the Cabernet attributes were
that uncannily present which lead me to a bottle-mix-up suspicion. Who knows? I’d like
to think everything was fine with my bottle. It was just a weird, but not that unenjoyable, expirience.
Maybe simple and not challenging, but quaffable! Ohh, before I forget, not as
harsh and butch as most Tuscan Pinots. It was relatively smooth and well
balanced.
Weingut Jürg Saxer Pinot Noir Classic 2009, Zürcher Weinland
Saxer’s
Pinot Noir Classic, his basic Pinot, from Neftenbach in Zurich was totally different. Its colour was
very bright with some slightly brown reflexes. The nose appeared to be very
cold and light and unfortunately not too pleasant. I got scents of green
bananas, strong earthy smoke and weak impressions of fresh strawberries. The
taste told me sweet, very sweet, strawberries. I am afraid: Not very enjoyable.
Besides that I got plenty of smoke and a variety of burnt attributes. Not so
much enjoyable as well. A typical light bodied cold climate Pinot without a lot
of complexity, good acid, but with far too much, almost aggressive / mawkish seeming,
fruit sweetness. Definitely quaffable, but not for me! Next!
Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht Pinot Noir R 2002, Pfalz
As I
mentioned earlier this Pinot Noir R 2002 from Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht was a
substitute, a highly unfair substitute. Simply to the fact that this one cost
three times more than the other Pinots. I think I needed something allegedly good
to end my tasting day with a Quality Moment ;-)!
This Pinot's
colour was very transparent, still astoundingly juvenile looking, almost no discolourations
on the rim and very radiant-ruby-red. The nose was highly elegant and
aristocratic, but not too super complex. I got distinct scents of smoke, very
mildly boiled red fruits (mostly strawberry) combined with impressions of fresh
fruits (mostly strawberry again), some hints of earth and connotations of
mushroom risotto. Its taste was very precise and fruitful (once again mostly
strawberries), little bit boiled once aging, very fine and elegant smoke, quite
some mushroom feelings (no misunderstanding, please ;-) Ha!) and hints of roasted
flavours. Not too complex, like the nose, but tremendously present, lively and precise.
Due to its age it wasn’t lacking of silky smoothness either. Very smooth and
fruitful, almost a bit too much. But that is my unique “problem”! So, do ignore my
last sentence, please. Very profound and long lasting finish as well. One con
though! Finish it within 3 to 4 hours after opening and refrain from decanting.
It won’t benefit at all. Better put: It will deteriorate pretty fast! Anyway, that won’t be
a big problem. For me it was a very easy going Pinot Noir with a certain amount
of demand. Beautiful and joyful demand! Quaffable in its own way!
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