It’s been a
while since my last Mexican wine. Last time it was a Petite Sirah from Baja’s
largest and most renowend wine producer L.A. Cetto. This time the actual producer remains unchanged. Only grape variety
is about to differ. To differ to the “extreme”! Well, probably not extreme, but
for a European it is a slightly special thing to drink Reserve Nebbiolo from
Mexico. I know, I know! Sounds a bit unreceptive and insular! You got me! All
those years of tasting “weird”, or better put: peculiar, wines and there we have it: My true character! … Naaa, just
kidding! I’ve really been looking forward to this Nebbiolo Private Reserve 2007 from L.
A. Cetto. I just didn’t know how to fill up the lines, because unfortunately there is not so much input material to learn about this Nebbiolo. The “raw material” for
this typical Old-World grape varietal wine was produced in Valle de Guadaloupe on the
southern Californian peninsula. Then it has been fermented for up to 20 days and aged
for another 14 months in mostly used French barriques. Let’s check it out …
8:19
pm (just popped and poured)
Colour:
rather tinted for a Nebbiolo, quite murky and to
the rim pretty lush in colour and even a bit transparent
Nose:
no picture book Nebbiolo nose apart of some
diffuse and a bit mild seeming rugged animalistic odours; dark juicy
cherries and brambles, traces of charcoal, rather sweet and
accessible at the moment; not really complex or inspirationally
occupying
Taste:
really dusty, if not sandy, tannins, absolutely
not stern or molto difficile; right now I am not sure what to think
about those detected blurry flavours, besides dried tomatoes and
dried cherries I get plenty of Hershey’s Choco Sauce and traces of
appealing red currant; there are not a lot of Nebbiolo feelings being
transmitted from my tongue to the brain, however there might be an
alert transmission: possible cork flaw, a minor on – if so … got
to check this later to be sure
9:15
pm
Nose:
joining tart liquorice, more intense bramble
(perhaps a bit mawkish); still not inspirational at all
Taste:
tart liquorice here, too; besides that a more
determined development towards a sweeter and longer finish; dustiness
including a truly unusual texture is remaining, the fruitful
character of this wine is even more obvious than before, maybe there
are some minimally Piedmont-nebbiolo’ish features evolving, if so
they could be described as pretty monotonous and mildly savage! By
the way … my cork flaw angst is still pending, however more
retrenching at the moment
10:36
pm
Nose:
once again a bit more diffuse animal odour, diffuse is an appropriate
term, the nose really seems pretty blurry and even a bit lame; not
that impressive at all
Taste:
the wade in my mouth is moisturizing –at least a bit,
the tannin impression isn’t that nastily dusty anymore, some earthy
aromas are developing as well; beyond all that no mentionable
substantial changes
7:48
pm (the day after)
Nose:
overall more life, still pretty much diffuse and mostly far away from
any typical features of Nebbiolo, perhaps the nicely developed
character of dried foliage could be some indication for Nebbiolo
Taste:
more, however for Nebbiolo rather atypical, splendour; the
characteristics of bramble seems more sugary and juicer; besides that
I am getting more flavours of caramel, old fashioned salty
liquorice-cough-candies and really viscid soy sauce; improvement has
happened overnight, I am afraid my sudden fatigue came a bit too
early yesterday
10:09
pm
Nothing
really new happened in the past two hours, still very unusual and
fruitful Nebbiolo
Conclusion:
Give it a lot of air, let the sandy texture get a rest, be
open for a lot of dark fruit flavours and most of all don't expect a
conventional Piedmontese Nebbiolo! Yesterday, I had my problems to
get comfortable with this style of Nebbiolo. Today, I am more
pleased. That is why I am in favour of a marginal decent
****
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