Happening Now Tasting 4: Weingut G. Heinrich Pinot noir Dorflagen 2012, Neusiedlersee


Ain’t I am a fan of shooting just released Pinot Noir down my gullet!? Not really! But today it shalt be different. Why? Curiosity paired with a decent amount of desire for Pinot! Curiosity – because I am not the biggest fan of Pinot Noir from the Burgenland in the east of Austria and desire – well, actually … non of your business! Anyway, great opportunity to have another “Happening Now Tasting"! This time with Weingut Heinrich’s – the famous one from Gols, the Gernot – Pinot noir Dorflagen 2012. The grape material was hand-harvested in August 2012 from the biodynamic cultivated Ried Goldberg and Ried Salzberg, spontaneously fermented in large oak tanks and aged for eight months in used 500 l barrels. Last educational input for today: just like its name - for German speakers, and the minusculed "noir", might indicate: Entry Level Pinot - don't expect too much then!

6:07 pm (just opened)

Colour: crystal clear, super transparent, relatively dark red and almost glowing hue. Just the way one might expect a young Pinot Noir. I guess ...

Nose: Plenty of very ripe dark and tart cherries, a bit more than just a bit raisin’ish (pretty typical for most of Burgenland Pinots), mildly incinerated pastry, assorted herbs, hints of espresso chocolate and admittedly really gentle smoke impressions. Right now, an overall typical nose with slightly leaner and fresher seeming fragrances than I would’ve expected.

Taste: First – not overpowered or jamy which is smoothing the way to a promising Pinot! I hope! The taste seems to have plenty of slightly overripe characteristics as well. Rather raisin’ish and dry dark cherry flavours, hints of cedar, a few fresh plums, lively fresh herbs, very well proportionate sweet and lean candied orange flavours straight to the end combined with a slightly warming ethereal touch (alc. just 13%).Right now a surprisingly satisfying Pinot Noir with typical characteristics and perhaps some more potential for the coming hours ...

7:29 pm

Nose: Not a lot of change, maybe a stronger tendency towards slight rubber and herbal spice while retaining the previous impressions

Taste: Same for the taste, still rather expressive, surprisingly decent and not as fat as so many other Austrian Pinots, Right now maybe slightly more integrated and not as wet behind its ears as it appeared one and a half hours ago in addition to that perhaps a bit more spicy to the end.

9:06 pm

Nose: Still a very stable and steady impression, the rubber tendency is diminishing, the espresso choco is gaining ground and its herbal characteristics are leaning towards more integration

Taste: The lean and fresh Pinot structure is continuing to satisfy me with its delightful, not elegant, liveliness, the acid seems to get more vigorous (in a gentle way) and the already mentioned nasal choco-coffee characteristics are getting stronger and stronger and this certain warming ethereal touch – as I’ve called it earlier – is slightly, and luckily, degrading. The overall impression is still very stable.

10:12 pm

Absolutely no noteworthy changes over the past hour! Next update tomorrow

12:39 am

Nose: stronger tendencies towards a more dry-fruit’ish and raisin’ish character, the herbal spiciness is getting a bit more peppery, the nose pattern seems a little bit more blurred compared with yesterday’s nasal impressions.

Taste: Just like the nose heralded: more dry and raisin’ish fruit aromas of dark cherries and plums, a stronger coffee influence and a slightly stronger presence of green’ish flavours. The nice and lively structure was still in sound.

In conclusion: A distinct and typical warmer climate Pinot Noir with aromas of dried fruits or even traces of slight heat stress without signs of overpowering in different respects. The structure seemed light, fresh, well proportionate and animating (admittedly: in its own particular way). Personally I am not really in favour of dried fruit flavours in Pinot Noir. In this case the combination of freshness / liveliness with a certain local heat stressed dryness worked out. I really enjoyed drinking this decent **** and rather typical representative of Burgenland Pinot Noir. Surprise: It was already a pleasure to consume this youngster. Anyway, no need to hurry either …

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