One thing is more than just sure: there
are doubtlessly niente problemi to find wines from super scarce,
super autochthonous and super great grape varieties in super bella
Italia! In combination with the right – well, actually not the best term to use in this case, I guess ;-) – music, this Happening Now Tasting must be a real ripper!
Like last year I'd like to pay a visit to bellissima Sardegna. More
precise, to Alghero on the north western coast of the island. This
area of of Sardinia was, and still is - at least in respect of the
local language, influenced by Catalan-Aragonese culture. This certain
influence even applies to today's super scarce varity called Torbato.
Some wine historians suggest that Torbato,was brought to Sardinia in
the middle ages by settlers – or, if you like conquerors - from
Aragon. Today just about 50 hectares of Torbato are still alive and
kicking, Besides Sardinia it is only cultivated on a few hectares in
Côtes du Roussillon area. There it is called Tourbat or Malvoisie du
Roussillon. My Torbato was produced by the local wine giant Sella &
Mosca. Actually so far the only producer who dedicated itself to the "restoration“ of this old traditional variety. The vines for
today's Torbato Terre Bianchi Cuvée 161 2014 were cultivated on highly
meagre coastal white limestone and assorted white marine sediments.
Well, after all it is called Terre Bianchi. Harvest was between late
September and early October 2014. Plenty of skin contact and temperature controlled fermentatio for 20 days in stainless steel (approx. 90%) and used oak
barrique barrels (approx. 10%) were the next steps of vinification. The subsequent aging in stainless steel was quite short. Let's have the first sip ...
5:14 pm (popped and poured and probably a
bit too chilly)
Colour: 99.999 Canadian Gold Maple Leaf
with a few minor rather spawny appearing particles
Nose: elderberry, sea smoke, khaki,
maybe some underlying white flowers, a scent of honey (acacia), white
pepper, mashy yellow kiwi, hint of oak; rather lush (but crisp),
resolute and kind of expansive
Taste: plenty of juvenile sturdy charm,
surely a bit snappy (crisp acid), acacia honey, shy impression of
oak, elderberry with an addition of certain exoticism, heavy touch of
smoke, sea salt, chalky water; so far very robust and convincingly complex
7:56 pm
Nose: character of chalky water is
showing some evo in the nose as well, everything is appearing a bit
more firm and serious, the fragrances of exotic fruits are performing
a bit weaker, same for the acacia honey, besides the elderberry more
an more lemon (zesty) aromas are evolving; overall far less lush and
expansive
Taste: so far lushness is still
prevailing, aromas are pretty much the same, the impression of
„detectable“ alcohol (14% on the bottle, on the web page 13,5%)
including a mild subliminal rock sugar sweetness is evolving, its
crisp punch is keeping up, same for the earlier mentioned distinct
smokeiness and my admittingly slightly weird challky water impression
(perhaps even a bit more vigerous), some shy assorted green herbs are
evolving as well; strenght and charcter are holding up – I am
interested how this one will evolve
6: 32 pm (the day after)
Nose: still elderberry, white flower
are gaining ground, same for chalkishness, mild acacia honey is gone,
fruitful exotic fragrances as well; overall more integrated, less
resolute and snappy – however a bit dull as well
Taste: creaminess is hitting the
palatal stage, all aromas - but the smokiness – appear more
settled, elderberry even a bit stronger, same for the zesty lemon,
herbal character a hint more refined, alc. still a bit too
dominating, limestone and lushness in the retreat - should go well
with mussels, other seashells and similar stuff, however now I am
missing the spark of excitment and well fitting shy rebelliousness
(which I felt on the first day). In the end a fairly decent ****
wine. Better drink it two to three hours after popping. Much more exciting that way
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