Something
aged for a change? There we go: The Porta
dos Cavaleiros Reserva Seleccionada from Caves São João, one of the oldest
large wine cellars in Bairrada, is one of the Dao Classics. In general this
wine is produced from the autochthonous grape varietals Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Baga and Bastardo
and sometimes stored in large Portuguese oak barrels and following bottle-aging
for up to 10 years and more. Depending on the maturity and mellowness of the actual
vintage.
My 1995
showed very mature characteristics. The colour was dark, murky or even muddy
and decently discoloured (dark brick-red coloured) all over the surface. The
nose seemed very manly and butch. Plenty of locker room nose, smoke, sandalwood,
hints of tobacco and hardly any fruit. If so, mainly haggard dark forest
berries. The taste was surprisingly acidic, still tannic and rather lean. The actual
flavours were limited to a lot of bright brown earth, a few crushed forest
berries, more than a few peppermints, other herbal aromas and maybe even some
green beans!?! The structure and body wasn’t bulky, particularly concentrated
or well defined. It appeared to be as a rather rustic and classical (in a negative
sense) experience. My advice don’t keep it for all to long and if you open it
get yourselves some solid meal and drink up within an hour. The long barrel
aging sucked the life out of the wine. Then it might have been very tannic, austere and
robust. For my understanding far more exiting than an over matured classic. According to that ... too classical!
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