And again
back to the North-West of Spain. I guess, my fascination with the whites from Galicia
& Co. is getting a bit bugging! Well, whatever … as long as it is good wine
;-).
This time,
for the first time on this Blog, it is Albariño Time. Probably the most impressive
and prestigious white grape varietal of Iberia. This one was produced
by Coto de Gomariz from the Ribeiro region. The “winemaker” Caco Careiro is one
of the restorers or pioneers (depending on how one looks at the history of wine
in Galicia)
of Galician quality wine. What else to know? 100% Albariño – sloppy schist,
granite and sand soils – influenced by not so rainy Atlantic climate – mostly bio-dynamic
production.
The Albariño
was surprisingly densely yellow coloured, almost a bit dark yellow and crystal
clear – without any particles. In the nose I sensed camomile tea, yellow-red
pears, maybe hints of Oolong, very ripe quince, Golden Delicious apples, in the
background some green spices and wet stones. A very filigree and detailed
bouquet. Not expressively fruitful! A couple of hours later and on the second
day I sensed a bit more fruit, herbs and less camomile tea. The taste was pretty rough at
first. Very dry, very stony mineral, a lot of petrolish features, diffuse green
spices, some camomile tea and highly reserved fruit flavours of yellow pears +
some yellow apples. A rather stern bitterness on my palate (after 3 to 5 seconds)
and the slightly difficult rustic style disturbed me … at first! About 5 to 6 hours
after the opening, these minimally repulsive features faded away. Lucky me! But a certain
amount of bitterness, which isn’t that atypical for Albariño based wines,
remained throughout my two day tasting session. Besides this light bitterness
or rather acerbity, lean and distinct fruitful flavours of yellow very ripe pears and
even some apricots evolved. The green herbal and expressively mineral character
persevered the whole session. On the second day I sensed certain Riesling associations.
Rather weird and perhaps blasphemous, I am aware of that ;-)
In
conclusion: a decent and fairly priced white from the North-West at the age of a
cheeky teenager with certain ambitions. I’d recommend to a wait another year or two!
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