Once again
a French Connection Wine. I guess there are quite a few of these on my blog. This
time, the first time, it is an Argentinean-Bordelaise-Connection with an aged
Malbec from Mendoza.
In the 1990s the Garcin family, known for wines like Clos L’Eglise from Pomerol
or Chateau Haut-Bergey in Pessac-Leognan, established a boutique winery in Mendoza with
the aim to produce wines which reflect the specific terroir of the mountainous, sometimes very gaunt'ish, and
not so popular regions of Mendoza. My wine was the 100% Malbec (over 60 year old vines) named
Clos des Andes from 2001 with just 12,5%. I
guess something which isn’t that easy to find these days ;-)
The colour
of this unusual Malbec was, like expected, dark-red, but not as brown’ish as
one might expect it to be. The particles situation was very distinct and heavy.
Further on, the nose was blessed by sophisticated and not really so typical,
for Argentinean Malbec wines (as far as my limited experience was able to provide
me with knowledge), scents of very expressive violets, undergrowth, some
charcoal, mild dark cherries and plums which ignited some diffuse aristocratic
Bordalais’ish feelings. Well, forget the last part of the previous sentence.
Short: the nose was very French, very Bordeaux Blend (with higher Malbec share,
Chateau Bel Air La Royère or stuff). Nothing like all the Malbec wines I had so
far from Mendoza.
My palatal impression was very smooth and silky. Maybe even a bit too silky. A
slight over ageing situation! But still very enjoyable! I did not get too many
fruitful flavours. Besides some dark cherries I was able to spot some typical
flavours of juicy plums and an overall reserved fruit sweetness. Flavours of
tobacco, mushrooms / mushroom dishes, fresh and moist earth, gentle smoke and
lorry loads of dark demi-bitter choco were far more present than the fruit
characteristics. The body seemed appropriately concentrated and equipped with
a, for me, very unusual lean and elegant style. In short: No squaller, no
bodybuilder, no sweet’ish alcohol monster – a noble wine, Old-Money-Style of French
aristocracy, really enjoyable, but rather exceptional! Only the age seemed to
complicate the overall picture a bit (maybe a storage problem). One or two
years ago, this wine would have been a grand expirience!
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