Todays wines comEE fRomEE IIItaly. The classical wine country I omitted so far. It is about time, I guess! The program for today is a microscopic national Pinot Cup! The first contestant comes from Tuscany and was produced by Frescobaldi. The second contestant comes from Alto Adige in the alpine north of Italy and was produced by the Azienda Vinicola Niedrist in Girlan.
Marchesi de Frescobaldi, Castello di Pomino Pinot Nero 2008, Pomino
Not so much theoretical fuss today. I suppose everybody knows the producer and its ambivalent reputation. I don’t really have a solid opinion about them. I just don’t like the Campo ai Sassi or Lucente or Remole or Nugole or Castiglioni. Luce and Castelgiocondo Riserva are pretty good. I digress!
Maybe you don’t know this particular wine. That might be my part for today. To bring some change. Only so much: It is a 100% Pinot Nero, not the classical Pomino Rosso, from Pomino an elevated DOC close to Umbria.
Its colour was very clear and juicy-lushy-richy dark red. Very stinging! My overall fragrance impression appeared to be unusual for a Pinot Noir. Plenty of fresh and dried dark cherries, freshly grounded coffee, mushroom antipasti, some mild juniper and a bit’ee of dark choco penetrated right up to my olfactory receptors. Maybe some animal odour as well. Anyway, a rather unusual, but exciting, Pinot so far. The taste communicated some obvious fact to me. This wine is still far too young! My fault! I have just been too curious. The acid was immensely strong and the tannins were infantile like some special ever growing senile wine geek. Whatever that last association might mean. Maybe an auto reference….OMG, I better shut up now ;-)! The different flavours are dominated by dark, spicy cherries, some blueberries, plenty of autumnal features, mushrooms and a diffuse black-earth-herb-combination. Unfortunately some impressions of raisins were undeniable. Besides the hyper strong acid the main disadvantage of the Pomino. The concentration was well proportionate and surly not distressed by too much alcohol. Make sure not to enjoy this Pinot too early. WAIT!
In conclusion: Not so much of a typical Pinot Nero (maybe more typical for Tuscany Pinot Nero!?!), but an exciting and contenting wine. Something different! That is what I am looking for anyway! In a blind tasting I’d bet the nana on semi-fat Chianti Classico! Ups!
Weingut Ignaz Niedrist, Südtiroler Blauburgunder 2005, Alto-Adige
The Niedrist was obviously far more aged. The rim was brown-grey-red and its entire impression appeared to be a bit pale and faint. Its nose was much more Pinot like! I got dark cherries, rosehip, smoke, some ethereal impression, hints of coffee and vanilla. A bit too much acid as well. The taste was pretty austere, spicy, smoky and earthy. After some hours it got more likeable. Other flavours were cherries, bramble, dark earth, some roasted nuts, hints of rubber and maybe a bit too much sweetness. The balance was okay, the concentration, too. Pretty tough cookie this Pinot! Not charming or seductive. That was fine for me. Fine! Not more! I’d say drink up!
From a conventional angle - “How Pinot Noir should taste” – the Alto Adige wins today’s Coppa! If you are into surprises and patient it might be a tie or even a Tuscan victory!
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