Teutonic Tinto Part 4: Weingut Paul Fürst Spätburgunder R Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg 2007, Franken

Pinot Noir – undoubtedly my most favourite grape variety! Spätburgunder – or in my language: Teutonic Pinot Noir – well, how shall I put it …? Maybe not that undoubtful might be the most diplomatic version! Especially concerning those high-end representatives! Various overambitious characteristics like over-oaking, toasting issues, over extraction, jamy fruit, lots of alc. etc. in plenty - not all, of course - of those high-end Spätburgunders provide me with head-shaking and other feelings I better won’t bring up ...! In my opinon there is far more quality to find in the entry- and mid-range-level sphere of Spätburgunder. Anyway, that's my opinon ... don't know what you guys on the net think!?

Today I’d like to give an high-end Pinot Noir from Teutonia a chance to show me different qualities. The representative for my endeavour: Bürgstädter Centgrafenberg Spätbugunder R 2007 from Weingut Paul Fürst. Since the early 1980s Paul Fürst is the Spätburgunder-Beacon from Mainviereck region in the very west of Bavaria. In recent decades the Pinot Noirs and Frühburgunders from his most famous parcels in Centgrafenberg (southwest facing red sandstone and clay vineyards, altitude between 150 to 250 meters) haven’t had any problems to show paramount examples of fantastic and highly mineral driven Teutonic Pinot Noir. Let’s check this one out …

The Spätburgunder R's colour appeared vermilion red, highly transparent, the reflexes seemed semi-sparkling and in the coronal regions already slightly tanned. The bouquet was downright lean, fresh, very clear, highly precise and profoundly equipped with various mineral features. The fruit fragrances came from the rose-hip and tart raspberry direction. Those appealing fragrances seemed highly alluring and elegant at the same time. The mineral characteristics were pretty herbal, maybe for me a bit too herbaceous, and full of dark mineral'ish associations. So far, a very typical - for Mainviereck-Region - and profoundly gripping Spätburgunder with fantastic qualities. The taste showed similar aromatics. Plenty of filigree, clear and precise rose-hip and tart raspberry flavours, traces of fresh and a bit bolder seeming strawberries, as well as plenty of super present mineral characteristics. For some reason I was under the impression to taste limestone. A bit unusually spicy limestone. As you know from my introduction … barley possible. Anyway, very profound and present mineral features. The spicy herbaceous characteristics were gently dominating and distinctively evolved. A feature I am not totally fond of. In this case it worked beautifully. At last it is a very typical terroir feature of this region. Same for the acid. It was very present and maybe in given time a bit too “employing”. Again, pretty typical for those colder climate Pinots from this region. The body was able to cope with it. The finish was definitely very long lasting, showed a minimally ethereal-orange-peel'ish-sweet-melting and unfortunately a slightly pungent powerful punch due to its comparatively high alcohol (13,5%). This last feature was the only real issue I had with this Pinot. With this tiny'ish disturbing feature in mind a very very decent ***** cool climate, highly precise and elegant Teutonic Pinot Noir indeed. I guess it is still a bit juvenile. Maybe better wait one or two more years. Perhaps a little bit more acclimatisation is still to come ...

Oh, by the way ... those mentioned "Basic High-End Spätburgunder Issues" of mine were absolutely not evident! Very well integrated oak, very precise and lively structure, no over-extraction, very elegant and clear fruit flavours, no marmalade, no “Zuckerschwanz” etc. … just a bit too much of this bloody alcohol flavours …. Looking forward to coming Fürst experiences!

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