In the weeks ahead I am
willing to confront my palate with a couple of Teutonic Tintos (resp.
German Pinot Noir). The favoured few will come from various
viticulture regions and subregions from all over Germany. I am
thinking about places like Breisgau in Baden, Württemberg,
Kaiserstuhl in Baden, Franken, Mosel, Rheingau and Pfalz. The actual
selection process will be rather imprudent, spontaneous and certainly
without the intention to present the pick of the best from each
region. In short: everything Teutonic, ready to drink, hopefully
drinkable and available (in the cellar) gets beheaded in the
forthcoming three weeks.
Today, I would like to start with the top shelf Pinot from Master of Wine Jürgen von der Mark. His winery is situated in
Markgräflerland's Bad Bellingen in the very South-West of Germany. The vineyard for his “Liedwein” (song wine) from 2008 “For unto us a child was
born” is situated in Breisgau's Tuniberg region just South of Freiburg. Well, let's hope this Pinot will sing to me as magnificently
exhilarating as Händel's song from the oratorio
Messiah ...
The colour of “For unto
us a child was born” showed rather bright-radiant ruby reflexes
with plenty of transparency and a slight and marginal discolouration
towards red-brown on the outer rim. Its nose was dominated by
fragrances of ripe, not overripe or jamy seeming, strawberry and more
serious and slightly tart odoriferous raspberries. Besides that I
got some shy appearing fragrances of assorted wild herbs, local ones,
subtle smoke and a nuance of warm oak. On the palate there where
quite a lot of bright red berries (strawberries and raspberries) with
a minute touch of warmth and a cunning impulse of very relaxed fruit
sweetness in the background. Luckily without any trace of boiled
fruit. In addition to those pretty dominant and not all too profoundly gripping flavours I imagined to
taste some beetroot, delicate milk chocolate, traces of mildly
roasted hazelnuts and again a few assorted impressions of rather shy
wild herbs. The potpourri of aromas seemed really fine. Perhaps not all too complex, though. The structure of the “For unto us a child was
born” seemed quite impressively subtle, mostly vivid and from the light side and far more serious as well as definitely more coolness
emanating than most Pinots from this southern, and most of the time quite hot - in Pinot sense, region of Baden. However, I
would not like to dispute about its actual provenance of this Pinot. In my opinion
there was plenty of rich character from South Baden in this wine. In this case ... simply in a
very convincing, well balanced way ... and surely not in an exaggerated-overextracted-fruitboiled-overoaked-or-whatsoever-way. I enjoyed this respectable and very decent *****
Pinot quite a lot.
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