It might
get a little bit embarrassing on this self-referentially described “adventurous”
wine blog. Yeah, right ...! Again I felt the urge to get inspired by a wine which was presented
on Hendrik Thoma’s “Wein am Limit” a little while ago. Sometimes I like to get persuaded to give varietals
or specific wine styles once and maybe for all another try. Another try for wines which did not impress
me all too much in the past. You may feel free to interpret this description in a
more straight forward sense: as wines which tremendously pissed me off. Thanks
to “Wein am Limit” I gave Xinomavro, the classic varietal from Naoussa, another chance to conquer my palate. So far I
had a few Xinomavro based wines and I always been “reserved” about these expiriences.
Probably due to their bitchin acid, violent tannin structure and questionable concentration. However, the Kir-Yianni
Ramnista 2006 (100% Xinomavro, from selected blocks in Yianakohori vineyard,
aged for 14 months in French and American oak and partly fermented in open-top tanks) presented
itself to me as a very decent, very balanced (although still a bit young), almost
uniquely tasting and enjoyable representative for a Xinomavro based wine!
The Ramnista’s
colour appeared to me as very dense and opaque. Not full of particles or other "filth". I think I got plenty of very dark and
fleshy red colour reflexes and an astoundingly juvenile seeming hue on the rim. The nose
had quite a lot of sweaty basketball players odour ;-). Very savage and
memorable touch. Besides this strange impression it seemed to have plenty of gripping
dark cherry fragrances, loads of Mediterranean herbs (typical grilled Souvlaki
marinade), incinerated wood and some hints of very black coffee. Despite its
savage character it seemed to have a special form of elegance and dignity. The taste showed a lot of not so nasty and more lively acid. Far more sophisticated than
all the Xinomavros I had so far. The tannin structure was pretty juvenile and certainly
butch, but very beneficial. Besides the rich fruitful flavours of dark cherries
and hints of huckleberry-sherbet I got an deep impact by some strong earthy and mineral impressions. Pretty tough
ones, but rather profound, too. Classical Mediterranean herbs and aromas of dusty
high percentage bitter choco did their job pretty nicely in the background. Great
finish with a lot of length and reasonable tartness. Surprisingly enough, it never seemed over-concentrated, full of muscles or rich in alcohol. A very dynamic and almost fresh wine! Very memorable piece of
work! One lil piece of advice: let it breath or better allow it to grow up a
bit. Definitely still in its teens.
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