Happening Now Tasting 31: Weingut Stadlmann Zierfandler Anninger 2013, Thermenregion

So far on my "Happening Now Tasting" voyage throughout autochthonous Europe I have been to places like Galliac, Sardegna, Württemberg, Euskadi and a few days ago to beautiful Crete. This time I'd like to make a quick stopover in one of Austria's most diverse viticulure areas called Thermenregion. This Thermenregion (= somthing like thermal baths region, originating from Aquae resp. today's Baden bei Wien) is situated right on the southern outskirts of Vienna. The predominant soil is mosty fine-grained sandy loam and localy substantial layers of limestone. On just about 2100 hectears of land grape varieties like Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Neuburger, Zweigelt and Portugieser contribute to a wide spectrum of flavours and unique characteristics. One of the masters of those „not so well known“ grape varieties is Johann Stadlmann and his son Bernhard from Weingut Stadlmann in Traiskirchen. My autochthonous choice for today is Stadlmann's crisp entry level Zierfandler Anninger from 2013. Zierfandler might be the auto'-signature grape variety of Thermenregion. On just 85 hectares around Gumpoldskirchen this rich in extract and late ripening natural decendent of Roter Veltliner x something Traminer'sh can show plenty of meaty character and tender aromatics of exotic fruits and spicy lemons. Let's have a look ...

6:25 pm (popped and poured)

Colour: consistently juvenile bright steely yellow colour, cool appearing reflexes, quick fading hints of carbon acid (screw cap),

Nose: a bit too relaxed and shy at the moment, obvious touch of juicy (if possible anyway) ripe quince, perhaps some marula fruit, traces of mashed yellow pears, bakeing spice, overall more filigree for a Zierfandler

Taste: lively crisp acid, streamlined body with plenty of freshness; flavours of yellow not all too ripe pears, yellow kiwi, marula, slight hint of fructose, emerging aromas of white pepper; surprisingly firm extract for such a relativly light wine; not as reserved as the nose and no considerable sternness – already pretty much delightful

7:30 pm

Nose: still a bit shut - or reluctant; some reserved fruitful aromas shift to a zest'y temper, a not so appealing and diffuse background impression of paper mash is evolving as well – curious how this will show in one or two hours

Taste: pretty much the same, perhaps the pear is a bit in retreat and quince seems to be on the rise

9:33 pm

Nose: the temporary (luckily) pulpy paper is gone, besides its persisting fine fruit aromas of white pepper, yarrow and honeysuckle are evolving; anyway the fruitful characteristics are still dominating - but there is far more openness now. Rejoice!

Taste: I think earnest and slightly tart attributes are gaining more and more ground; now the taste is overall more zesty and herbal and substantially more gripping – however maybe not so joy-infusing anymore; now there are far more attributes evident which I connect to Zierfandler (without having extensive experience)

6:49 pm (the day after, and frightfully hot weather with well above 100° F)

Nose: return of the paper pulp? - not sure about that, nose seems a bit in overall retreat – probably a nasal weather effect ;-)

Taste: I think I am getting a little bit more extract'y beef from the body, it seems a bit denser as well; the armoatics are mostly the same, perhaps not as vital as yesterday

This Zierfandler Anninger 2013 from Stadlmann was a dowright decent **** experience with crisp – however not too acid driven – freshness and plentiful straight chracteristics without oaky distraction. I enjoyed it despite the distressing heat in- and outside!


Subtlet said...

Nice to see your post on this. We tasted a Zierfandler and a Rotgipfler from this producer a few years ago and really enjoyed them.

Oh Dae-su said...

I enjoyed this one, too. Definitely something unique. There aren't too many pure Zierfandler left. I am glad Johann Stadlmann is taking care of these autochthonous fellows ;-). My next one will be a Ramnisco from Portugal.