Thanks to a semi-nasty,
and perhaps mostly imagined, tendonitis, which was induced by my
geriatric mouse, I am not as wine post productive as usual. In terms
of writing wine none-sens - as if you guys might expect something
else from me - I am willing to make a tendon-sacrificing exception.
In today's Happening Now Tasting I'd like to devote myself to a well
aged Barolo from highly famous Roberto Voerzio. I've been looking
forward to this Barolo Brunate from the outstandingly miserable 1994
vintage for quite some time ... well, actually since last week after
I spotted this neglected beauty in a local wine shop. Let's have a
slup ... hopefully not a veggie one ...
5:02 pm (popped and
poured)
Colour: transparent,
bloody, discolouration on the corona within limits, almost a bit
radiant - by the way: exemplary cork quality
Nose: typical herbal Barolo touch, hint of liquorice, thyme,
undergrowth, mild black coffee, dark gravy, rather vital leftovers
from hearty dark cherries, luckily only a few veggie traces (maybe
Jerusalem artichoke); seems elegant and gently
integrated, by far not as aged as I feared
Taste: astoundingly fresh
(for age and vintage) and elegant, evident and not too aged dark
cherries flavours, hint of moist oak, foliage, hints of roasting
agents; fine acid (not too defining) and suitable leftovers of
tannins; very nice tart finish, which isn't that spectacularly long
lasting, however not bad at all; the structure seems pretty beautiful and approachable (as well as dangerously quaff'y); far off from death or veggie soup; very nice and
not overpowered Nebbiolo
6:01 pm
Nose: perhaps a bit more
smoke and definitely a bit more tartness, however still a pleasant
one, minor hint of musk, dried meat and dried tomatoes are showing
more beauty; I guess complexity is gaining some ground
Taste: on the palate
definitely more density and complexity right now; more thrust from
dark cherries, nice aromas of dried mushrooms (perhaps Shiitake),
more evident indications of very mild “liqueur” (no better
expression to describe); mid-palate very convincing at the moment;
now I am getting really pleased with this one …
6:49 pm
Nose: hints of cellulose
(or something like that) are arising – not the best indication for
a long term nasal pleasure, apart of that not so much of
momentary-evo going on
Taste:
still very present and (in
the figurative sense) vital, right now I am under the impression that
more mineral'istic (and beginning brute Barolo barn) pleasures are happening on my tongue, anyway holding up very well!
7:48
pm
About
20 minutes ago my tounge has been on the pinnacle of the Brunate
vineyard; right now there are a few brown-green'ish veggie
indications of cautious downfall (espcially the nose), on the palate
still convincing (aromas more or less the same), perhaps a bit less
vivid
9:23
pm
In
the past hour the Brunate is getting more crude, more rustic, more
“bloody”, is showing more irony characteristics and is losing a
lot of its elegant appeal. Structurally (not aromatically) there is more Nebbiolo,
rather simple Nebbiolo, and less … well I refuse to write down this very
variety. Use your imagination ;-)
7:22
pm (the day after)
Still
alive, more rustic than yesterday, more leather, less iron, less
blood, more brown fruits and more hints of coffee; still very much
enjoyable; anyway better finish off on day one!
Considering
its age and especially its vintage this one was a really very decent***** surprise with plenty of typical Barolo characteristics (paired
with polished elegance) and a delightful lean body. Between the
second and third hour there was even more pleasure - than just very
decent pleasure - to this wine.
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