Happening Now Tasting 22: Azienda Agricola Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 1994, Barolo

Thanks to a semi-nasty, and perhaps mostly imagined, tendonitis, which was induced by my geriatric mouse, I am not as wine post productive as usual. In terms of writing wine none-sens - as if you guys might expect something else from me - I am willing to make a tendon-sacrificing exception. In today's Happening Now Tasting I'd like to devote myself to a well aged Barolo from highly famous Roberto Voerzio. I've been looking forward to this Barolo Brunate from the outstandingly miserable 1994 vintage for quite some time ... well, actually since last week after I spotted this neglected beauty in a local wine shop. Let's have a slup ... hopefully not a veggie one ...

5:02 pm (popped and poured)

Colour: transparent, bloody, discolouration on the corona within limits, almost a bit radiant - by the way: exemplary cork quality

Nose: typical herbal Barolo touch, hint of liquorice, thyme, undergrowth, mild black coffee, dark gravy, rather vital leftovers from hearty dark cherries, luckily only a few veggie traces (maybe Jerusalem artichoke); seems elegant and gently integrated, by far not as aged as I feared

Taste: astoundingly fresh (for age and vintage) and elegant, evident and not too aged dark cherries flavours, hint of moist oak, foliage, hints of roasting agents; fine acid (not too defining) and suitable leftovers of tannins; very nice tart finish, which isn't that spectacularly long lasting, however not bad at all; the structure seems pretty beautiful and approachable (as well as dangerously quaff'y); far off from death or veggie soup; very nice and not overpowered Nebbiolo

6:01 pm

Nose: perhaps a bit more smoke and definitely a bit more tartness, however still a pleasant one, minor hint of musk, dried meat and dried tomatoes are showing more beauty; I guess complexity is gaining some ground

Taste: on the palate definitely more density and complexity right now; more thrust from dark cherries, nice aromas of dried mushrooms (perhaps Shiitake), more evident indications of very mild “liqueur” (no better expression to describe); mid-palate very convincing at the moment; now I am getting really pleased with this one …

6:49 pm

Nose: hints of cellulose (or something like that) are arising – not the best indication for a long term nasal pleasure, apart of that not so much of momentary-evo going on

Taste: still very present and (in the figurative sense) vital, right now I am under the impression that more mineral'istic (and beginning brute Barolo barn) pleasures are happening on my tongue, anyway holding up very well!

7:48 pm

About 20 minutes ago my tounge has been on the pinnacle of the Brunate vineyard; right now there are a few brown-green'ish veggie indications of cautious downfall (espcially the nose), on the palate still convincing (aromas more or less the same), perhaps a bit less vivid

9:23 pm

In the past hour the Brunate is getting more crude, more rustic, more “bloody”, is showing more irony characteristics and is losing a lot of its elegant appeal. Structurally (not aromatically) there is more Nebbiolo, rather simple Nebbiolo, and less … well I refuse to write down this very variety. Use your imagination ;-)

7:22 pm (the day after)

Still alive, more rustic than yesterday, more leather, less iron, less blood, more brown fruits and more hints of coffee; still very much enjoyable; anyway better finish off on day one!

Considering its age and especially its vintage this one was a really very decent***** surprise with plenty of typical Barolo characteristics (paired with polished elegance) and a delightful lean body. Between the second and third hour there was even more pleasure - than just very decent pleasure - to this wine.

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