Bessarabian Pinot: Purcari Pinot Noir de Pucari 2008, Moldova

My first Pinot Noir from Moldova was an unusual experience! It was produced by Pucari Estate. One of Moldova’s most future-oriented, modern and at the same time long-standing wineries. Their history goes back to the first half of the 19th century. The large reservoir of old vintage bottles and enormously large cellar facilities are only a few features of Pucari. Comparable to the even larger wine producers in the Chisinău region, e.g. Cricova Winery (with maybe the largest wine collection in the world). The material for today’s Pinot Noir was cultivated in a “micro-region” next to the River Dniester in the South-East of the country. The actual cultivation took place on black carbonate and heavy loam soils. As always far too much blather! Now the important stuff:

The colour of the Pinot Noir de Purcari was brick-red and showed a lot of transparency. A pretty aged appearance! The nose drifted towards a more unique style. I got fragrances of orange peel, mild strawberries, a bit of jasmine, plenty of crude smoke (plus a few cold cigarettes) and a remarkable “bitter principle”. This bitterness in combination with orange peel and smoke reminded me of Campari Orange! The taste showed tart and weak strawberries, quite a lot of rose-hip aromas, hints of oranges and a weird juvenile appearing tea’ish (rose-hip) tannin structure. Unfortunately, the Campari and cold cigarette impression did not choose to be absent. At least it wasn’t a very boozy Campari impression. Overall a light, not very lively (it seemed to me a bit over-aged), not too complex, absolutely dry, reserved fruitful and maverick Pinot. With three hours of air it got more than just consumable. I guess, something for adventurous people!

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