Untamed Down-to-Earth Etheral Powerdrink: Quinta Vale Dona Maria Van Zellers Rufo 2008, Douro

Once more back to Douro! I guess, one of my most favourite viticulture areas on the globe. This time it had to be a red blend from one of the most highly regarded Port Quintas: the Quinta do Vale Dona Maria owned by the legendary Cristiano van Zellers. Today’s wine is his basic red blend called Rufo which was created of a whole bunch of varietals (Touriga Nacional approx. 60%) and aged in stainless steel.

The Rufo’s colour seemed like fresh ox blood - dark, very vital and juicy. Its nose was astoundingly complex for a wine for less than 10 Euros. I got fragrances of red currant, juniper, blueberries, plenty of herbs, unfortunately a lot of pungent ether, black pepper, boiled plums, dark chocolate and lightly sweet fruit flavoured marzipan. The taste was dominated by assorted boiled fruits, very spicy herbs (bitter), loads of pepper, some dark chocolate and hints of fresh coffee. Unfortunately the alcohol seemed very present and powerful throughout my 48 hour testing. The density was very impressive. Loads of power, strong acid and intense life! Just a bit too much for me! I might dare to describe it as too alcoholic (ethereal), clumsy and crude. I guess the clumsiness might come from the overdose of alcohol (14,2 %). There weren’t too many mineral and earthy features, nor powerful elegance (which I can see pretty often in Douro wines), in this wine. Far too many herbal and bitter medicinal attributes which made me think of Italian bitters like Fernet Branca or comparative drinks. So, for me (and maybe others), this stuff might be pretty beneficial after a good old gluttony feast! I really don’t want to slam this wine. It has its own particular class! I am rather sure a lot of people might like this kind of overpowered, intense, still pretty acidic and butch style! Not me, sorry ...

No comments: