Following the Footsteps of Dionysus ... or the past 365 days I let my thirsty tongue float around the Eastern Mediterranean

Like the not so overly concise headline sufficiently implies: in the past year I laid my vinophile concentration on the lands the ancient Greeks use to swirl around. The voyages of my tongue stretched from Sicily in the West to the Levant in the East, Macedonia and Albania in the North and unfortunately not to Egypt in the South. I tried to get a wine from the outskirts of Alexandria, but well … you know I think my tongue wasn't ready enough for a 15 year old Syrah straight our of the Nile delta. One of those sweet ancient classics from the Sinai or a Cru des Ptolémées would have been nice! Anyway, I digress … like so many times. Speaking of lengthy proliferations: No worries, I've decided not to introduce each wine with an overboarding and tiring introduction about soils, production methods, origins or even worse mostly useless analytical values. I've done my homework before tastings. So can you, if you wish to have a little bit of input about one or the other wine. Plain tasting notes! That's what the stuff that follows is all about. At least I hope so! So just shut up and give it a go ...

Gikas Pine Forest Assyrtiko Retsina 2020, Chitairon Thebes - Greece

Greenish pale radiance intermingling with an easygoing backgroundish resinous crisp larch pine cone nose accentuated by ginger, smoke and a hint of flintiness constituted this modern Retsina. On the palate the resinous sensation seemed to be a bit more present. Never dominating though. Besides that plenty of ginger tea, herbal vermouthy petrol, crisp lemon peels as well as bergamot oil. On the second day even a bit blossomy and more balanced. Cannot say that I disliked it … actually not at all.

Recanati Bittuni 2016, Hebron - Israel and Palestine

This Bittuni is quite a unique wine! Very old uncrafted and non irrigated Bittuni vines cultivated by Palestinian farmers near Hebron and fermented as well as aged by the well known Recanati winery near Netania in Israel. I suppose something one might not expect. Both - the collaboration and such an astoundingly light as well as dense wine made from a grape nobody really knows … The looks of this Bittuni were youthful garnetishy ruby, transparent and consistent all the way to its slightly watery rim. In the nose breezy brambles, violets, Ethiopian coffee, a whiff of countryside, dark feeling earthiness, graphite, salty licorice and a few Mon-Cherie Amarena cherries … which I was able to tolerate due the overall very pleasing impression. On the palate the vital, lean and gripping structure convinced me right from the start. Really subtle indeed! The actual flavours reminded me of dark berries – no need to mentioned those sublime brambles – dusty dark choco, juniper, mineral water, iron, ginger, shy salty licorice, very nicely composed fresh coffee and luckily not so much of the Amarena cherries. A bit like a lighter and very serious Morgon of infinite potential π … if you know what I mean! I really enjoyed the outcome of this serious collaboration!!!

Pendore Kavaklidere Öguzgözgü 2017, Aegan Coast - Turkey

Juicy Bohemian garnet and tones of blueberries jumping out of a cold ashtray. Doesn't sound all to appealing, right? Well, the Bohemian impression was just visual of course and the ashtray more nosey. On the palate it wasn't that challenging at all. It showed a light simple structure with plenty of blueberries – even a bit jamy – walnuts and creamy milk chocolate. A bit firmer and less random would have been nice. Easy going stuff …

Gavalas Nyxtepi Assyrtiko 2018, Santorini - Greece

Lush 18K gold and respectable viscosity from the visual side. Its nose showed the classic Meyer lemon punch, a hint of cream, a bit distracting vermouth, pepper and flowers in white attire accompanied by a proper scoop of honey. Quite an expressive, dense and extrovert nose I dare to write. On the palate bold and really unique! Quite a body-concious and riper Assyrtiko. White pepper, whipped cream, the lemon again, later some peaches, plenty of honeysuckle and honey as well as the imprinting Vermouth made some serious impression! Its hyper saline character contributed a very convincing dimension. The higher alcohol and a mild sensation of shy residual sugar where not that convincing though. Still a very unique experience I do not dare to miss. After a while a bit demanding!

Vortman Winery Carignan 2016, Haifa - Israel

Visual vibes of radiant Silesian garnets without a significant trace of age. In the nose thyme, a bit too much oak for me nostrils, nougat, freshly grounded coffee, charcoal, bright brown earth, dark olives and hardly any detectable fruit. Unlike the nose predicted there were plenty of fruity impressions on my tongue which reminded me of dark cherry juice and slightly heated red currants. The structure however seemed quite fresh and vital. Not warming or stressed at all. Thanks to a significant proportion of acid I assume. Besides a sweatish sensation of Charolais my tongue based impressions seemed pretty much congruent to the nose. Besides the good portion of oak, which was simply too superficial, a rather becoming Carignan with style. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

Domaine de Tourelles Cinsault VV 2017, Bekaa Valley - Lebanon

This mostly ruby red toned Levantine constituted itself by its hypothermia herb driven character. In the nose I got fragrances which reminded me of lemon balm, mint, mugwort, vervain, parsley, hints of green olives, cool red currants and traces of licorice. Its taste was even more herbal and cool. Its quite interesting structure emitted a gaunt – in the beginning even mildly obtrusive – character with quite some unique and puzzling appeal. I got plenty of pencil, black pepper, fresh mint, vervain and red as well as black currants with a butt load of olive tapenade mixed with quite dirty mud enriched limestone – which revealed its origins of Bekaa. Sediments of bold tannin and a very subtle acid contributed to this rewarding palatal experience! I think the most convincing Cinsault I ever had so far ...

Segal Winery Argaman Single Vineyard 2014, Northern Galil - Israel

For its age and my lacking experience with Argaman based wines this one showed some surprisingly vital and radiant hue of garnets. In the nose violets, ginseng, smoke, some vanilla – perhaps a bit too much - and later quite a lot of juicy red currants. The tongue appeared quite mellow and easygoing. Red currants and vanilla supplemented by some beetroot were in the center of attention. Besides that incinerated bread crust, juniper, mild raisins and strong vibes which reminded me of American oak. Its tannin was still tangible and its acid very present and youthful. Its hot origins were obvious, but complemented with an underlying fresh nature. Not really me due to its very mellow character, but still quite a surprising and lasting tasting experience!

Chateau Musar 2001, Bekaa Valley - Lebanon

Bickish transparent clinker with ruby sparkles all the way down to its core. The nose showed quite a lot of appeal right from the beginning. Mokka, dark chocolate, sweaty horse, rosemary, dried roses, pomegranate – of course - and steak coming right from the grill. On the palate very well hung – in a decent sense of course - as well as easily accessible. Not the most cunning, spicy or refined Musar I had, but a nicely balanced and in beautifully lighter shaped one without a doubt. On the palate more bloody and fleshy than in the nose. Enjoyed this elegant classic a lot.

Zambartas Lefkada Single Vineyard 2019, Central Cyprus

If you are searching for a combination of marzipan, juicy plums, some almonds, dark olives, even darker choco and besides all that an opportunity to sharpen your pencil and have a go to alleviate your tummy issues with medical coal this one might be something for you! Doubtlessly this Lefkada was quite a unique and astonishing experience! The raunchy tannin and its hypothermic character made it not easier to grow on to this one. Anyway, I most definitely enjoyed this somehow inspiring challenge!

Chatzivaritis Winery Negoska Carbonic 2019, Goumessia - Greece

Ruby brownie hue of certain age and residual radiance. The nose showed raspberry soda, thyme, seemingly kitsch imprinted cherries and overall frostily chilled. The carbonic vibes were tangible. The palate showed a sheer acid attack with some extincting tannin. Certainly super vivid, if not to say energetic. Overall more cherries than raspberries, quite rustic and strong on the medicine side … quite challenging, however not that bad. Definitely little crowd-pleasing-potential I assume.

VRE Chatzivaritis Winery Malagouza 2021, Goumessia - Greece

Naturalistic gloomy with a shy mousse all in bright orange attire. In the nose jasmine, chamomile tea, green tea, juniper, white pepper, subliminal honey and tapir fart. On the tongue slightly creamy, packed with green herbs – woodruff in particular, guava, pineapple, yellow pear, chamomile and some peppery Kombucha structuralism. Quite some intense teenager. A bit nervous as well. But if you are in to stuff like that it might be rewarding. I kinda enjoyed it on a hot summer day.

 

Eduardo Torres Acosta Versante Nord 2019, Etna - Italy

This was some standoffish southerner of decent buoyancy. Its nasal sensation was characterized by tons of flint and matches – obviously, dark juicy cherries, lavender, dark olives and a lot of coal. On the palate there was a quite similar impression supplemented by snappy earthy tannin and infusing vital acid. It showed quite a lot of cold heart in fiery surroundings. After two days much more settled and accessible. Give it some time! It has a lot of potential!

Tsiakkas Pitsilla Xynisteri 2021, Pitsilla - Cyprus

The hue of Xynesteri based wines might be not really their strong suit. Same here, but who the hell cares about attire anyway. This one might have been pale golden with strictly limited vibrancy, but the nose was so friendly and polished which made it quite difficult not to like it. White flowers, passion fruit, in lemon drenched marble rocks enriched by fields of sage made this Xynesteri from Cyprus super enchantingly attractive. Not too exuberant in its simplicity. Just beautifully harmonious! 

Skenderbeu Brandy NV - Albania

A brute and petrol driven experience packed candid fruits, pine cones, caramel, oak and a bit of salt. No idea what it was actually made of. The vicious alcohol punch was overwhelmingly sharp and snappy. Quite some difficult stuff to enjoy I fear … I assume it has different, probably more immediate qualities … if you know what I mean ...

Iliana Malihin Shima Winery Vidiano 2020, Melampes Crete - Greece

Another fellow from the pale side. Which was quite surprising to me, because „regular“ Vidiano has quite often some really decent lushness potential. Eventually this Vidiano was rather unusual in many aspects. In the nose I got fragrances of chamomile oil, anise, cinnamon, sour cream, herbal toothpaste, lemongrass and a trace of acacia honey. On the palate a combination of very shy acid and baffling vital freshness. Plenty of chamomile, Limoncello incl. its distinct alcohol punch and a whiff of Pastis de Marseille. Besides that more pineapple incl. skin, less citric lemongrassy flavours. Woodruff again, limestone, matches and very surprisingly to me something which reminded me of bright feeling leather. Quite unusual for a white wine isn't it!? In addition to that quite a bit of juvenile tannin and some really pressuring structure. Something completely different if you dare to compare it with more regular Vidianos. Probably due to its naturalistic approach. Quite enlightening in its own way!

Domaine Zafirakis Limniona 2013, Tyrnavos - Greece

Opaque garnet with reduced transparency, a seasoned coronal complexion and a plentiful inlay of sediments. In the nose chamomile (!), ripe raspberries, smoked iron, thyme and a hint of tar. Overall a very cool and refined impression. On the palate ripened raspberries, a hint of Puh-err tea, a distinct chamomile extract combined with some subtle herbal character – not Mediterranean herbal – of pleasing simplicity. To me a really convincing and cool appearing sneaky Pinot taste-a-like in Limniona disguise with a whiff of flamboyance and beautiful quaffiness. I really really enjoyed this one! 

Kavaklidere Cotes d'Avanes Narince 2021, Kappadokia - Turkey

Alike the Xynesteri not a very vibrant or colour dense wine. Most Narince based wines tend to a certain paleness as well, I guess. The nose showed well developed fragrances of elderberries, white flowers, some honey and mild green Mediterranean herbs. On the palate white gummibears, a bit lactic lemon cream, almonds, slight tartness and mildly peppery licorice. On the second day a little bit more convincing. I have to admit I had more persuasive Narince wines. Even from Kavaklidere. This one seemed a bit too reserved and simple minded ...

Tselepos Winery Ktima Driopi Reserve Agiorgitiko 2019, Nemea - Greece

Finally a wine with “conventional” southerner attributes! Sorry for this one! Tinted purple, vibrant and utterly opaque! Just the way John Smith would expect a wine from the southern Mediterranean. In the nose plenty of laurel, lavender, violets, black cherries and medical coal. Actually rather appealing and noble. Okay, I am easy to catch with laurel after all. Its taste was dominated by laurel, dark olives, pasta water, bread crust, dark chocolate, chestnut cream, rosemary and a friendly embracing sappy sensation. Quite a posterboy Nemea … a pretty bulky one … however not overshooting at all! A very yummy wine indeed! Although I am normally not so much into stuff like this ...

Cremisan Dabouki Star of Bethlehem 2019, Bethlehem - Palestine

Lush and radiant colour with quite a few sandy seeming particles. In the nose very straight forward white peaches and apricots, green herbal tartness and some mineral impression from the sandy limestone of Bethlehem. Quite pleasent actually. Its palate showed yellow pears and a few white peaches in combination with a certain flintiness, white pepper, almonds, honeysuckle, mild smoke and a distinct shy creaminess. On the second day even more pithy and pointed. A bit pertly texture. Much more convincing than my last Dabouki - from Cremisan - which must have been quite a while ago. Really nice!

Agape Valdibella Nerello Mascalese 2020, Etna - Italy

Transparent and ruby looks coming straight from the slightly pungent mawkish side. In the nose sharp red currants, limoncello, some flint, some smoke, some over-boarding fruit power and diffuse boiling features. On the tongue far too boiled and jammy for me. A very lean and slightly alcoholic type though. A few olives and a whiff of sea breeze added some more dimension to it. Overall a rather simple and very fruit driven Nerello Mascalese. Not really me.

Chatzivaritis Xinomavro Mus 2019, Goumessia - Greece

The visual impression of this Xinomavro was some news. Even for me! Super transparent with a veil of murkiness, a faint ruby core and heavy brick action in the coronal sphere with a watery rim. I really should have made a picture. In the nose dried roses, rose hip, strawberries, even ripe raspberries, lavender and thyme. Coming strong from the fruity side. Quite some cool, exhilerating and fresh nasal impressions. On the palate vital and cool seeming raspberries, leaves of roses, a few black olives, fresh cut twigs and some distinct dark earthiness. Some significantly raunchy tannin for its overall crisp and light character. Not to forget its very becoming and vital acid. To me it showed a quite interesting combination of a top by Pinot and pants by Nebbiolo … very interesting Xinomavro!

Kayra Buzbag Rezev 2020, Central Anatolia - Turkey

Freshly tapped bulls blood with vital radiance and certain transparency. In the nose peppery, a lot of black currant, Mon-Cherie, some eucalyptus and dusty dark chocolate. The tongue got even more Mon-Cherie, chocolate - not too dark one, vivid acid, a lean and fit body, dusty tannin and certain attributes which reminded me of a herbal medical treatment on eucalyptus base. A bit too much oak I am afraid. For a Buzbag not too bad at all. Still rather simple wine with perhaps a bit too much ambition.

KEO St John Commandaria NV, Commandaria - Cyprus

Beguiling unattractive visual impressions of murky red brown slag mixed with diluted cherry coke. Indeed quite a horrible sight! However its nose showed certain beauty and depth right from the beginning! A broad bouquet of intense and very polished walnuts overlaid petty much all other fragrances. Besides that there were some subtle hints of ginger, cinnamon, orange zests, a few almonds and walnut liquor. Hence – perfect wine for Chrismas'y occasions I suppose. On the palate very soft, very long, very dense with a surprisingly invigorating acid which tamed the 150 g residual sugar quite cunningly. In sum: pure Nuremberg gingerbread elixir. Its oxidative character wasn't disturbing at all on the palate. Something I most certainly respect! One little glass is definitely a blessing … more is up to your own risk!

Sept Viognier 2022, Bekaa Valley – Lebanon

Reserved amber meets a chain smoker's twenty years old gold inlay on a sunny beach. Very differentiated and somehow extraordinarily appealing visual affect. The nose was overwhelmingly lush and intense. Plenty of zests from lemons and oranges, Earl Grey tea, vermouth, ginger and some deodorizer block from you know where ... Not brute or superimposed at all. Quite accessible and welcoming actually. Its taste - oh hell, on the tongue it got even more expressive and dense without negative side effects like over-boarding alcohol or even bitterness. Here the zests and very extrovert sea buckthorn were in the center of attentiveness. Subtle smoke, yellow kiwi and well integrating salt supplemented this impression. Okay, there was a hint of imagined detergents again. However very underlying. Nothing to worry about. Quite some grip'y experience which I won't forget that easily. I am sure of that!

Lazar Winery Pinot Noir 2021, Povardski – Northern Macedonia

For a Pinot Noir astoundingly dark and opaque. Hardly any aging detectable. In the nose a lot of liqurice, smoke, weary green Mediterranean herbs, a lot of blood, some hard iron, dark earth and over roasted coffee. Overall rather crude. Little charm on the tongue as well. Very unnerving acid, too much harsh alcohol and quite a lot or dried tomatoes supplemented by blood, smoke and iron. Very rustique and sauvage experience with little depth! Not my cup of Pinot at all! 

Kavaklidere Prestige Bogazkere 2018, Diyabakir - Turkey

Again one of those ruby dominated redsters with a lot of brilliance and not too much southerner tint. In the nose rather simple and characterized by bright red fruits and balmy spices. Not too exiting I fear. On the palate olives, a bit syrupy cranberries, cinnamon, smokey meats and a not so becoming tartness. A rather light Bogazkere with green tannin and lazy volition which might have seen better days ...

Dalamara Xinomavro 2020, Naoussa - Greece

Super transparent bright ruby hue with substantial brickwork on the rim. Quite a legit and solidly deep nose with various dark berries, smoke, dark elderberries, green spices and plenty of meaty game. On the palate blood, cinnamon, brighter plums, some elderberry, a tiny whiff of strawberry marmalade, some beef jerky and again quite a lot of meat straight out of the Greek highlands. Very light structure in combination with raunchy as well as snappy tannin and some electrifying acid. A very unusual and very pleasing Xinomavro with obviously well attributed naturalistic features … or something like that. It provided a lot of fiery play on my tongue!