24.8.16

Frederiksdal Kirsebaer Vin 2013, Lolland



At last, wine from Scandinavia! Don't worry - today's one is not made of grapes! I know there are plenty of wines made from grapes in Denmark and Sweden. The very few ones I've tried over the years were not as convincing as I've wished them to be. So it might be better to have a wine made from a more indigenous fruit, I guess. How about cherries? Let me tell you, for this one I surely can drop the diplomatic "transcription" of just two sentences ago. The Frederiksdal Kirsebaer Vin 2013 doesn't require tactful treatment. It was just simply outstanding! Okay, enough of my excitement induced anticipation. First, some quick info before it is getting really juicy.

Not so many years ago Harald Krabbe – the proprietor of Frederiksdal manor, the cook Jan Friis-Mikkelsen and the journalist Morten Brink Iwersen came up with the idea to start a production of premium wines made from cherries. Frederiksdal on the western coast of Lolland Island in the Baltic Sea seemed to be a magnificent spot to „give it a try“. Most of their wines are produced from Stevensbear cherries. Stevensbear is an old indigenous cherry varietal which can be found all over Scandinavia. It was (and still is) widely used for the production of fruit juices for generations - well and now it is used for wine. Nice one! Frederiksdal's oldest ochard is called Nielstrupmark (planted in 1993, wine production since 2006). The fruit of this plantation used to be sold in bulk to the juice industry. In 2009 the three partners started to plant Stevensbaer cherries in another orchard called Skelstrupmark. There, for the solely premeditated purpose of wine production in following quite a lot of principles which are very well known from “actual” viticulture.

The cherries for today's Frederiksdal Kirsebaer Vin 2013 were mostly cultivated on the older Nielstrupmark plantation. These cherries provide the wine with fruitful and fresh characteristics. Only a small share of cherries was cultivated on the younger Skelstrupmark plantation. The cherries from this plantation are supposed to provide more intensity and a proper backbone. After the harvest – which is quite similar to modern olive harvest in many areas in southern Europe – the cherries underwent a spontaneous fermentation for 2 to 4 days and subsequent aging in stainless steel tanks for approximately one year. I suppose, I shouldn't stretch the tech-attention to the utmost! So, let's have some cherry wine …



The colour of the Vintage Kirsebaer Vin appeared slightly faint, was downright red-brown tinted and very well viscous. Its nose showed intense and very dense seeming fragrances of juicy dark cherries, some musk, a hint of lime, heavily roasted coffee like in a Kopiko coffee candy and mildly earthy. Everything very intense, perfumed but also rather well interwoven. Perhaps a bit too bold and rich for me. Its taste was outstanding though! The actual aromas seemed pretty much the same, but not as bold and expressive as they tickled my nostrils. All flavours seemed a bit more refined, not as lush and overall beautifully pleasing. Its freshness provided the rather heavy and rich body of the Vintage 2013 with a certain non burdening sappy character which made it much more delightful. Another pro was the mild saltiness which was lurking around the peripheral side regions of my tongue. Its very obvious sweetness was nicely balanced by a proper infusion of vital acid. No need to mention its very respectable finish. It was just amazing – especially for a fruit wine! On the second day the entire composition seemed even more ready to enjoy! Overall a very unique, highly thrilling and super very decent ***** experience. In a year or two perhaps even more!? I wonder how the other wines up the hierarchy of Frederiksdal might perform on my tongue. I am pretty much determined to find out!

No comments: